Winter wisdom

The people of Ladakh have honed their understanding of the region’s unique weather patterns over the centuries. This traditional knowledge has been passed down orally across generations and strengthened through sustained observation.

One such insight is about the timing of snowfall. The phrase ‘Namlangs la munrup’ is used for snow that falls early in the morning. It means ‘dusk to dawn’ and describes snowfall that starts early in the morning andcontinues falling until dusk or beyond. People would comment, “This is not going to stop!” and feel happy! This is in contrast to another observation, ‘Phitog gi kha donkha’ (evening snowfall is a guest), which possibly means that snowfall that starts in the evening is of short duration. It might also be subtle advice to guests to keep their visits brief and respect the host’s space and time! This aligns with science, which has found that when it starts snowing in the early morning the snowfall persists for longer due to colder and stable atmospheric conditions. On the other hand, when it snows in the evening, the snowfall stops quickly due to residual warmth and unfavourable conditions.

Similarly, people in Ladakh have interestingly simple measures of the amount of snowfall drawing from everyday experiences. For instance, ‘Cha-rjes chot-pa’ is the smallest unit of snow. It translates as ‘just enough snowfall to mark the delicate footprints of birds on the ground’. This is rather poetic while also precise and charming. Others in Ladakh describe this amount as ‘Skunme kangrjes chatches’ (snowfall sufficient to mark the footprint of a thief). This expression blends practicality with humour especially when used to express dissatisfaction at the amount of snowfall.

Slightly larger amount of snowfall is termed ‘Ongmol gang’ (one broom full), which is ‘just enough snow that can be cleared with a single stroke of a broom’. These traditional expressions capture utility, observation and possibly a sense of satisfaction at the amount of snowfall. When it snows about six inches or the size of a brick, it is called ‘Pag-tsir’. Elders would comment with pride, “It must be two pag-tsir on the mountains, as we have one pag-tsir in the valley!”

Snowfall is always welcomed in Ladakh as the region is completely dependent on winter snowfall to recharge glaciers that sustain life in the region. While rainfall causes havoc in Ladakh, snowfall is welcomed even though people have to clear snow from their roofs, which people seem to enjoy. There is a famous proverb in this regard: ‘Gun jik karte mane yar jik mi sngo’ (How can summers be green without a white winter?). It emphasises the inter-connectedness of seasons. Metaphorically, it highlights that resilience to endure hardships such as harsh winters prepares one for future prosperity. I have often heard elders use this proverb to comfort youth when they are facing hardships.There is another popular Ladakhi proverb: ‘Ngatok srinmar chaksna acho rarzi papu tuk phitok srinmar chaksna aba chukpoe lasdik chos’ (If the sky is red at sunrise, shepherds should mend their shoes but if the sky is red at sunset, farmers should plan the next day’s work). Science agrees with this time-tested wisdom. Red sky in the morning indicates the possibility of rain while the same phenomenon in the evening suggests clear weather. The red-ness is caused by scattering of sunlight through the atmosphere due to different weather patterns. However, nature’s unpredictability can outsmart advanced technologies as well as ancient sayings. Yet, when science makes an incorrect weather forecast, it is greeted with a storm of criticism. And when traditional wisdom fails, we chuckle and say, “Nam tang gyalpoe chava sua shes” (Who can predict the king’s actions or the weather?) Just as a king’s acts are often enigmatic, so too are the complexities of nature. This unpredictability underlines the limitations of human understanding be it traditional wisdom or modern science.

Photograph and text by Dr. Spalchen Gonbo

Dr. Spalchen Gonbo is a Paediatrician based in Ladakh.