Some traffic behaviour are unique to Ladakh’s road. Imagine you are driving on the National Highway 1 towards Sham and you intend to turn right to Phyang village. You will naturally use your right indicator, slow down, look in the rear view mirror for any vehicles behind, keep an eye for vehicles in front, slow down and when you have the opportunity, turn right to enter Phyang. Now suppose you are driving on the same road but travelling to Nyemo. You see someone in your rear view mirror who wants to overtake you. What would you do? Are you among the people who would use the right turn indicator to signal to the car behind that they can overtake you? If your answer is yes, you have been immersed in Ladakh’s road culture! And what does the traffic rule say in this matter? Well, a vehicle indicator is meant to indicate what you are intending to do and not what you want others to do. The right response in this case should be to slow down a little, use the left turn indicator as you move a little to the left in the same lane to make way for the vehicle behind and let it overtake you. You could also use a ‘graceful’ hand gesture in such a situation to communicate “please go ahead” to the car behind.
Similarly, imagine you are driving down from Khardong-la towards South Pulu and you see a fully-laden truck climbing towards you. The road is only broad enough for one vehicle to pass at a time. The correct response would be to stop and use the left indicator to indicate to the oncoming truck that it has the right to way. However, in Ladakh one would most likely see the driver of the vehicle descending use their right indicator to convey to the oncoming driver that he or she has the right of way. Two main rules are applicable here. One pertains to the right-of-way and the other to the use of indicators to signal what you are intending to do rather than to command others!
In situations involving narrow slopes the right-of-way rules apply for safety reasons. It is more challenging for a vehicle climbing uphill to restart if it stops. The vehicle will face difficulties due to the uphill incline and the heavy load, which can cause it to roll back or struggle to gain momentum. It is easier and safer for a vehicle travelling downhill to stop and give way to the vehicle climbing uphill. The vehicle travelling downhill can stop more easily and restart with less difficulty as compared to the one climbing uphill. A truck climbing uphill has less manoeuvrability and control compared to when it is going downhill. Stopping and restarting on an incline can be hazardous for a heavy vehicle. In practice, it means that a when a vehicle is going downhill on a narrow road with a steep slope, it should stop and allow a vehicle climbing uphill to pass first. The vehicle going downhill should stop at a safe spot and use the left indicator to communicate its intention to the vehicle climbing.
Speaking about right-of-way, do we know when to flash the high beam light? It is meant to be used to alert a driver who is coming in the wrong lane or heading in the wrong direction. Often drivers in Ladakh use it to ask for right-to-way. It’s not always a polite gesture especially if you do not have the right-of-way! It can be seen as aggressive or demanding and potentially lead to confrontations as it is not a universally accepted or officially sanctioned signal. The right way would be to slow down and wait for the other driver to respond with a flash or a gesture. Making eye contact and gesturing politely to request permission to pass is a better way.
Also, when navigating slopes, there is a rule about the use of gears during a descent that most experienced drivers practice. When descending a slope, it is always a good practice to descend in the same gear that you would use to ascend that slope. The reasoning is that when you descend a steep slope on a low gear, you use the engine as a brake and do not need to use the brake, which may fail if used too frequently over a long period of time specially if you are also using the clutch .When descending a slope, using the same gear as you would to climb is also important to maintain control and safety. Lower gears provide engine braking, which helps control the car’s speed without relying solely on the brakes. This prevents the brakes from overheating, which may result in brake failure. A lower gear also limits the car’s speed and eases navigation of steep descents. So, the next time you take the Nyemo short cut make sure you use the same gear when you descend as you do when you ascend. And don’t forget the rule related to right-of-way on this narrow strip. You can thank me later!
In this context I remember a conversation I once overhead while taking a taxi ride from Kargil to Leh. The conversation was between the Ustaad (driver) and the Chela (assistant). The Chela asked, “Hey, what is the ‘L’ on that car?” The Ustaad replied that it means that the driver of the vehicle is a learner. This made the Chela very curious and he asked, “And how does having an L on the vehicle help?” The Ustaad explained that others on the road will make way for the learner. The Chela was very excited and suggested, “Hey Ustaad, then why don’t also put an “L” on our taxi? Then everyone will give us the right-of-way!
In India, the ‘L’ on a vehicle does stand for ‘Learner’. It is put when a person is learning to drive and holds a learner’s license. It also means that the learner has to follow certain rules. When you are driving with a learner’s licence, your vehicle must display a red ‘L’ sign on a white background on the front and rear. It should be clearly visible to other road users. The learner must possess a valid learner’s license for the class of vehicle they are driving and must carry it at all times while driving. The learner must also be accompanied by a person holding a valid driving license for the particular class of vehicle being driven. This experienced driver should sit in a position to take control of the vehicle if required. No passengers are allowed except for the instructor. Drivers with a learner’s licence are often restricted from driving during peak traffic hours or at night depending on regional traffic regulations and should maintain a speed appropriate for their level of skill. Furthermore, a learner’s licence is typically valid for six months, and the learner must apply for a permanent license within this period. Like the Ustaad and his Chela, most people are not aware of these restrictions and regard it as a ‘temporary’ licence until they get the permanent one. Thus, they are also unaware of the restrictions and rules that pertain to the holder of a learner’s licence.
Every other day we hear of a bike accident involving a tourist on Ladakh roads. In accident cases involving bikes, most people generally put the blame on the person in the larger vehicle even if the bike rider was at fault. Generally, the biker suffers more injuries. It is for this reason that it’s always a good idea to be careful on the road irrespective of whether you are riding a bike or driving a larger vehicle. Many tourists get into the saddle even before they are acclimatised and start navigating heavy bikes for the first time on unknown roads. Many of them are accustomed to multi-lane roads where it is ‘normal’ to overtake from any side. In Ladakh, I often see vehicles, especially bikes, overtaking from the left, which is not advised on a single-lane road. In fact, it is illegal to overtake from the left on a single-lane road. It might be safer for us to leave our egos on the back seat and apply the right-to-way rules to people who are unfamiliar with the rules of driving in these conditions at least during the tourist season!
However, tourists are not the only ones to blame for accidents. Many of the road accidents recorded in Ladakh are due to traffic volume and good road conditions, which seems to tempt drivers to drive at high speed. In June 2024 alone, Community Health Centre, Khaltsi received seven cases of vehicular accidents with 10 people who had serious injuries and two who were dead even before they reached the centre. An accident changes a person’s life forever, especially if there are deaths involved. I have seen many victims of road traffic accidents repenting the speed at which they were driving or their judgement, which contributed to the accident. Many of them have lifelong scars and suffer from post-traumatic stress disorder, which can be psychologically incapacitating to prevent—also making it illegal—them from driving ever again. In this regard, there is a very insightful Ladakhi proverb, “Rings rings pa bo, tus tus pa gore.” It tells us that if we rush and try to speed things up, we will only lose valuable time. On a lighter note, I remember treating a road traffic accident victim. As I was taking down the case history, he explained in all seriousness that the accident occurred while he was coming from the wrong side. I was puzzled as I have rarely heard people admit that they were responsible for an accident. I asked him why he was coming from the wrong side. He explained rather earnestly that Chang-la was closed due to snowfall and he was forced to come from ‘Rong side’!
By Dr. Spalchen Gonbo
Dr. Spalchen Gonbo is a Paediatrician based in Ladakh.