Over several aeons, the mountains have witnessed different stories that flowed like a river, continuous and alive. But I am quite sure that this time they feel suffocated and helpless. There is nothing they can do but they are probably tempted to speak out or change the trajectory of change.
I realised that this is why our elders kept uttering about the culture of Ladakh and emphasised the crucial need for its preservation. When we speak about Ladakh’s culture, it is not just about its traditional dance, folksong and folklore but also how our minds are shaped into something compassionate about nature, people and the animals around us.
I recently read Ancient futures by Helena Norberg. It felt like I had discovered the gem we have in our society; in the crease of each mountain and in the air of our blue sky. I started observing how minute things seem to carry deep meanings in the lives of our people. In the way that people in Ladakh live sustainably even though many of our elders never studied in school or read about science or pollution. Yet, they lived lives where every little thing mattered.
One time, I was chatting with my grandmother while drinking butter tea. Later, I stood up and started to clear up the dishes. There was a cup with a little bit of tea left, which I promptly threw in the sink. My grandmother shouted at me. “What are you doing? You are wasting the butter and tea. You should throw it in the bucket for the cows.” I responded, “Grandma, it is just a little bit of tea.” Only later did I realise this was how they respected nature, food and everything.
They would wear old, tattered Gonchas until they are completely wasted, and then use them to make a quilt or carpet. This means everything was used and nothing was left behind to suffocate the earth like we do today. The people of Ladakh have a harmonious connection with nature. We have been practicing reuse and recycle for generations. These minimalist ways of life allowed us to have strong cultural ties with nature. Not a single thing was wasted.
Traditional dry toilets are another remarkable innovation. Human waste was used in agricultural fields after composting safely to produce organic fertiliser, which prevented contamination of rivers and groundwater. It pains me to see traditional dry toilets being converted into water toilets simply because that is what we feel tourists want.
The traditional way of living never suffocated Mother Nature. However, things have changed now. Education has helped usher people into modernity but we now lack something that we had in the past. Now, our glaciers seem to be uttering their last prayers. I have mixed emotions each time I pass Drang Drung glacier near Penzi-la. I breathe the joy of its beauty along with whispers of sadness by how it continues to shrink rapidly in front of our eyes.
Similarly, I remember when Shinku-la was first opened it was a gorgeous landscape with snow-capped mountains and fresh air. More recently, I travelled home from Chandigarh over Shinku-la. I felt a deep heaviness in my heart as I observed the trash that has collected there. A wave of melancholy settled over me and it made me question development and modernisation. Is it really helping us or is it causing us harm?I know that change is constant but I feel it is in our hand to choose the kind of change we want.
By Stanzin Dolker
Stanzin Dolker (Zangla) holds a master’s degree in biotechnology and is the author of Her midnight tears.
Photograph of Drangdrung glacier by Nazir Hussain

