Ladakh’s tryst with Nehru

In 2019, Ladakh’s former Member of Parliament (MP), Jamyang Tsering Namgyal became a social media sensation for his famous speech in the Indian Parliament. He accused Congress governments of ignoring Ladakh since 1947 and termed it as “seven decades of neglect”. He quoted the famous statement by Nehru, ‘…not a blade of grass grows there…’ to drive home his point. As a BJP MP, he was speaking in support of the J&K Reorganisation Bill. It might be worthwhile to explore Nehru’s history with Ladakh.

This statement was made by Nehru during a debate in the Rajya Sabha on 31 August, 1959. It was in response to a ‘short notice question’ raised by then Rajya Sabha MP, Devendra Prasad Singh from Praja Socialist Party (PSP Bihar), which was founded by Jayaprakash Narayan in in 1952. He asked four questions of the then Prime Minister, who concurrently held the Minister of External Affairs portfolio. These deliberations occurred in the presence of distinguished Bharat Ratna, Dr. S. Radhakrishnan, who served as the Vice President of India, ex-officio chair of the Rajya Sabha, and later as President of India. This underscores the high-profile nature of these debates and its institutional gravitas.

The questions raised by D. P. Singh pertained to the road built by the Chinese on Indian territory in Ladakh. D. P. Singh had asked, “In view of the fact that the Chinese claim is unjustified and no reply has been sent to the Indian government, does not the government contemplate ousting the Chinese from this Indian territory by force? Will not the Government of India at least consider the advisability of bombing the road, built in our territory, out of existence?” To this, Jawaharlal Nehru replied, “No, Sir. Government will not consider that course, because that is not the way government would like to function in such matters. The hon’ble member started by saying that this is admittedly Indian territory but the Chinese would not agree to it. That is a contradiction in terms. As a matter of fact, it is Indian territory and we claim it so because we think that the weight of evidence is in our favour—maps etc. But the Chinese produce their own maps, equally old, which are in their favour. And the territory is sterile. Ithas been described as a barren, uninhabited region without a vestige of grass and 17,000 ft. high…In places like this, decisions can only be made by conferences by agreement. Countries do not, should not, go to war without proceeding in those other ways over such matters.’

The misrepresentation of this rhetoric was addressed the same day when independent MP, Jaswant Singh stated, “The Prime Minister stated a little while ago that this portion of Ladakh is absolutely desolate and unfertile and that not even a blade of grass grows there. Even then, China is attaching importance to that area and is building a road there. I would like to know, when China is attaching so much of importance to this desolate bit of land, why, when the territory is ours or is under dispute even, we do not attach any importance to this area?” Nehru replied, “I spoke only about the Yehcheng area and not about the whole of Ladakh although the whole of Ladakh, broadly speaking, is 11,000 to 17,000 and 20,000 feet high. Presumably, the Chinese attach importance to this area because of the fact that this route connects part of Chinese Turkestan with Gartok-Yehcheng. This is an important connection.”

Another interesting pivot of this argument is to blame Nehru for the entire debacle of Line of Actual Control, and failure to intervene proactively in the Tibet issue in 1950, which brought China to the borders of India and undermined the treaties signed with Tibet. This narrative hints at the India-China border issue as a problem created by Nehru. However, history would be served better if we look back at the Shimla conference in October 1913 and July 1914. Republic of China, British Government of India, and Government of Tibet convened in Shimla to address the territorial and political status of Tibet and underline the boundary in an area marked by Tibet’s ambiguous relationship with India and China. Historian Kyle J. Gardener writes in his book, The Frontier Complex: Geopolitics and the Making of the India–China Border, 1846–1962  that the British were wary of Chinese expansionism in 1911 after the Chinese revolution. The Chinese refused to accept the draft treaty prepared by the British as China wanted to assert control over the region and Tibet wanted autonomy.

Scholar of International Relations, Monika Chansoria has written that the then Chinese Premier Zhou Enlai tried repeatedly to alter Nehru’s position on Ladakh during three days of negotiations in April 1960 but failed to deter Nehru from his stand on Ladakh as Indian territory. He demanded that Chinese withdraw troops from this regions and that it was non-negotiable.

Journalist Rinchen Norbu Wangchuk has written that Nehru invited the 19th Kushok Bakula Rinpoche to Delhi and met him at his residence at Teen Murti to reassure Ladakh’s Buddhist community on 20 May 1949 and also accepted an invitation to visit Ladakh. Two months later, on 4 July, 1949, Nehru visited Ladakh. Undoubtedly, Kushok Bakula Rinpoche would have distanced himself from Nehru and Congress if they were harming Ladakh. Rinchen quotes a letter that Bakula Rinpoche had written to Indira Gandhi, which outlines what Nehru meant for Ladakh.

He wrote, “The passing away of our most beloved and distinguished Pandit ji is one of the saddest events in the history of man. Mother Earth has become poorer. Man will have to perform deeds of merit for thousands of years before [another] one like him walks upon this earth again…It is the pious wish of our people that a portion of the last remains of the ones who took so much interest in their well-being should be taken to Ladakh so that they may have the sacred opportunity of showing their reverence according to their religious rites. This implies the building of a Stupa and enshrining the sacred remains therein. I would, therefore, request you kindly to feel considerate to our deeper sentiments and oblige us by giving a portion of the last rites of our Pandit ji in favour of the people of Ladakh.”

China’s political history has been marked by significant policy shifts in response to varying regimes. The complex geopolitical manoeuvres surrounding Ladakh, Gilgit-Baltistan, and Kashmir has underlined the importance of Pakistan for Western powers. In this context, Nehru, against considerable odds, steadfastly maintained a commitment to Ladakh despite geopolitical unpredictability. He engaged in complex negotiations with China to delineate borders and strove to safeguard Ladakh’s strategic integrity. This was particularly challenging given that the region’s boundaries were a vestige of colonial cartographic delineations, contentious and susceptible to geopolitical manipulation. Nehru’s efforts to navigate these turbulent waters while preserving Ladakh’s status underscore his diplomatic resilience. The neglect of Ladakh can be attributed to systemic developmental inequities, compounded by its historical integration into J&K, which often marginalised the region. Nehru’s policies and priorities were influenced by a confluence of strategic, economic, and sociopolitical factors, and regional developmental deficits must be contextualised within this broader framework rather than ascribed solely to individual negligence or prejudice. Through Steven A. Hoffmann’s book, India and the China Crisis, we can understand that the complex border issue in Ladakh with China was a colonial problem. British attempts at creating a stable boundary line in this region was ongoing since 1865 resulting in multiple boundary lines, internal disunity between London and India offices, and clumsy dealing in the Shimla Conference 1914 on the Tibet Issue. Nehru had inherited these complex borders in the north with China as well as Pakistan. What Nehru did, however, was bring Ladakh and Kashmir closer to India based on principles that he envisioned for the world. Nehru’s efforts to consolidate these regions within the Indian framework reflect his broader geopolitical aspirations and the nuanced challenges of statecraft, balancing national interests with international dynamics in a highly sensitive regional context. It is crucial to recognise that Western political narratives have often perpetuated a distorted image of Nehru’s policies but were not necessarily personally antagonistic towards him. These perspectives were shaped by a geopolitical apprehension of a resurgent India, emerging from a legacy of anti-colonial struggle against Western imperialism. Thus, asking Nehru to defend himself in his absence is rhetorical manipulation that leverages the absence of a key figure to gain an undue advantage in the discourse of Indian nationalism, while diminishing the integrity of an individual.

By Mutasif Hussain

Mutasif Hussain (Thiksey) is former Assistant Professor in Delhi University and currently the Chief Coordinator of Ladakh Research Scholars Forum.

(Photograph credit: Bakula Labrang Spituk Gonpa)

The quest to belong

We had once gone on a school excursion to Sikkim. It was my first visit to this enchanting land. It was a truly magical and surreal experience to travel in the dense fog along the river through lush green mountains. It was the first time I was among the clouds. We had stayed in a cottage located high in the mountains, which could only be reached after a long trek. It was a beautiful cottage surrounded by lovely rhododendrons forest blooming with spectacular flowers. The cottage had a lush lawn where we would play in the afternoons. One day, we were playing on the lawn when some local students passed by. One of them asked if they could join us and I turned to check with my friends. Seeing this, the girl who had asked the question started imitating me and repeating everything I was saying, giggling with her friends. In retrospect, I wonder if the fact that we looked similar made her comfortable enough to tease me.

Another time when I was in college, I visited a café in Delhi with my school friends. It was a popular café whose staff members were primarily from the North East and Nepal. None of my friends noticed it but I realised that the staff members kept looking at our table curiously. My friends were mostly south Indians with a few from north India and other parts of the country. We were a very diverse group. The staff members were probably wondering how a person with my features was mixing so easily with the rest of the crowd. Here I was feasting on roti with tandoori chicken along with idli-sambar, dosa and my favourite mutton momos.

I have noticed this trend among students from Ladakh—as well as the North East—who study in places such as Delhi and other cities. They mostly keep to themselves and don’t mix easily with others. There are many who eventually assimilate well but it takes them time to open up. In my case, I have lived in Delhi from a very young age with a few years at a school in south India and later worked in Delhi. Thus, it is very easy for me to blend in with the crowd in these cities. During my early schooling years, there were no Ladakhis studying in my school. Since then, I have often been the only Ladakhi in an educational institution and workplace. The only exception was the time I studied at a south Indian boarding school, where I had a couple of fellow Ladakhi students. Otherwise, I had minimal social interactions with my fellow Ladakhis through school, college and professional life.

This resulted in a sense of alienation that has grown since my return to Ladakh. Despite my best efforts to dive back into Ladakhi society, bridging the gap that developed during my time away has been a big challenge. The natural and unspoken bonds that once seemed like second-nature now seem rather elusive. Navigating the shared experiences and cultural nuances that I assumed were intuitive now feels like an uphill task that leaves me feeling like an outsider in my homeland.

While I was away, I imagined Ladakh to be a homogeneous place. Now I have discovered that it is a cultural mosaic with people from different regions speaking their own distinct dialect of Ladakhi along with their unique styles, and cultural flavours. Even dances and songs vary widely from region to region. This rich diversity, while fascinating, has made reintegration feel like I was trying to assemble a jigsaw puzzle without all the pieces! Adding to the challenge is my fluency in English, which is the result of years living outside. This is sometimes interpreted as me showing off or worse, of me neglecting my mother tongue. Ironically, my attempts to speak Ladakhi often elicit giggles due to my limited vocabulary and occasional mispronunciation. I have tried to cover up my linguistic blunders with honorific salutations such as Kasa-ley, Ona-ley, Man-ley, Yin-ley, and Hala-ley. Despite my best efforts to sound respectful, I often feel like I am doing a comedic routine and bending over backwards to fit in. After spending years away, returning feels like a quirky adventure of rediscovery, where I am slowly learning to reconnect with the vibrant tapestry of my home.

By Stanzin Kunkhen

Stanzin Kunkhen is an entrepreneur and proprietor of Migsal Enterprises.

The hazards of staple pin packaging

Staple pin packaging has a ubiquitous presence in Ladakh, especially in Leh. It is used by everyone from dry fruit vendors to self-help groups who sell different food items. This includes Khuras (deep fried savouries), local bread, and various home-baked snacks, cakes and cookies. These are available at grocery shops in every nook and corner of Leh town. In addition, if you buy apricots or dry fruits from any of the vendors in Leh, they will package them in plastic bags that are then stapled shut.

Such forms of packaging methods violate safety practices and they can become a potential hazard in our kitchens, especially for children. People in Ladakh often eat Khura with tea or any of the other products that they buy from the market. If it has not been opened carefully, the staple pins may get mixed with the edible items inside. If such a pin is swallowed, it can cause harmful medical conditions. Furthermore, swallowing a staple pin that has either one or both its sharp prongs prised open can be very harmful as the sharp ends can cut or cause abrasions in the digestive system and cause bleeding. It is very difficult to detect such small pins even through x-rays or CT scans.

It is thus very important to ensure that all kinds of retail units that sell food items in Ladakh, should be regulated. This can be done using the FSSAI accreditation or registration with either a basic registration or state licence. This means they will have to comply with regulations and guidelines under the Food Safety and Standards (Packaging and Labelling) Regulations, 2018 with due diligence before they sell anything to a consumer. There are multiple ways to package food items to preserve their quality while also protecting the consumer from harm. This would be one way of reducing the risk posed by unsafe packaging, which is currently very common in Ladakh. The ones who do not comply can then be booked under relevant laws to ensure that the consumer is safe.

By Er Konchok Ishey

Er. Konchok Ishey is Assistant Engineer in Ladakh Power Development Department, Leh.

The road ahead for Zangskar as a new district

People in Zangskar dancing in Padum’s main market to celebrate the announcement of district status for the region. (Photograph by Stanzin Paksang Raru)

The recent announcement by the Government of India to create five new districts in Ladakh has received a mixed response from the region. However, in Zangskar, the news has sparked unbridled joy and celebration. As the news spread like wildfire, the usually serene streets of Zangskar were filled with laughter, music, and dance. The atmosphere was electric, reminiscent of the midnight hour when India gained independence and began writing its new destiny. For Zangskar, this moment marks its coming of age, a culmination of years of struggle and persistence. As the region basks in the glory of this milestone, it is important to reflect on the arduous journey that has brought Zangskar to this juncture. From the struggles for basic amenities to the fight for recognition, Zangskar’s story is one of resilience and determination. It is a moment to revisit the region’s history to understand the trials and tribulations that have shaped its people and their aspirations.

Historically, Zangskar was one of the first three tehsils of Ladakh, along with Leh and Kargil. However, the redrawing of district boundaries in 1979 sowed the seeds of discord. The district headquarters was located in Kargil, which is a staggering 240 km from Zangskar, forcing residents to travel long distances to access basic services. For years, the people of Zangskar felt neglected and marginalised, blaming the Kargil-centric administration and the erstwhile Jammu and Kashmir government for their woes. With the declaration of Ladakh as a Union Territory, the region witnessed a significant shift in infrastructural development and bureaucratic efficiency. However, UT status for Ladakh was not a solution to Zangskar’s problems and marginalisation. The people of the region aspired for district status. This dream was finally fulfilled on 26August, when Minister for Home Affairs, Government of India, Amit Shah announced district status for Zangskar. This decision has set Zangskar on a new path, where the region can shape its own destiny with careful planning and strategy for the long term to meet future opportunities and challenges.

Yet, this new chapter is not without its complexities. The announcement does not provide any specific detail about the five new districts. Ministry of Home Affairs has given a three-month window for the public and stakeholders to submit their inputs related to boundary, area and headquarter for the five new districts. This is a critical juncture for Zangskar, as the decisions made in the coming months will have long-lasting implications for the region’s governance, development, and identity. Now is the time for Zangskar to anticipate future challenges and opportunities for a better future of the region.

Challenges ahead

Administrative and governance structure: Establishing a fully functioning district administration from the ground up is no small feat. Zangskar must navigate the complexities of setting up all administrative offices in a single campus, staffing them with competent personnel, and ensuring that governance structures are efficient and inclusive. Key decisions, such as the location of the district headquarters and the delineation of boundaries must be made with careful consideration and with input from all stakeholders including local communities, religious organisations, and civil society groups.

Infrastructure development: The isolation and remoteness of Zangskar has long been a barrier to its development. The region has suffered due to inadequate road connectivity, limited healthcare facilities, and underdeveloped educational institutions. These institutions received a boost after Ladakh became a UT. However, as a new district, Zangskar will need substantial investment in infrastructure to improve the quality of life for its residents. Building all-weather roads, expanding healthcare access, and upgrading schools and colleges must be prioritised. The challenge will be to balance rapid development with the preservation of Zangskar’s unique cultural and environmental heritage. Development must be carried out with care to maximise utility and minimise environmental damage.

Environmental conservation: The pristine environment of Zangskar is one of its greatest assets, which attracts tourists and serves as a vital resource for local communities. However, this environment is also fragile. As development accelerates, there is a risk of environmental degradation, including deforestation, loss of biodiversity and increased pollution. The new district administration must prioritise sustainable development practices to ensure that growth does not come at the expense of the region’s natural beauty and ecology.

Social cohesion and inclusivity: Zangskar is home to a diverse population, including Buddhists and Muslims. As the region transitions into a new district, it is essential to foster social cohesion and ensure that development benefits all communities equally. Inclusivity must be at the heart of growth strategy of Zangskar with policies that address the needs of marginalised groups, promote gender equality, and encourage youth participation in decision-making processes.

Economic development: The economy of Zangskar is primarily based on agriculture, animal husbandry and tourism and requires diversification to ensure long-term prosperity. The new district administration should explore opportunities in renewable energy, agro-based industries, and eco-tourism. It should develop a comprehensive strategy to leverage the economic strengths of Zangskar while addressing its vulnerabilities for sustainable development.

Opportunities for growth

Tourism potential: The breath-taking landscapes along with rich cultural and spiritual heritage make Zangskar a prime destination for tourism. With careful planning and infrastructure development, the region can tap into its tourism potential, creating jobs and boosting the local economy. However, this must be done with a focus on sustainable tourism, minimising environmental impact and ensuring that local communities benefit from the influx of visitors.

Education and skill development: The status of education in Zangskar remains poor and it requires serious attention to provide the next generation with a holistic education. Now, there is an opportunity to enhance educational facilities and provide vocational training to the youth. Investing in education and skill development will empower the next generation to take advantage of new opportunities in various sectors including tourism and technology. By prioritising education, Zangskar will create a strong foundation for a more prosperous and self-reliant future.

Cultural preservation: The rich cultural and religious heritage of Zangskar is a source of pride for its people. As the region develops and becomes more accessible with improved road connectivity with Manali, Leh and Kargil, there is an urgent need to preserve and promote its cultural heritage. This can be done through cultural tourism, festivals, and educational programs. By celebrating and safeguarding its unique identity, Zangskar can become a beacon of cultural resilience in the face of modernisation.

Empowering civil society: The civil society of Zangskar including organisations such as the Zanskar Buddhist Association, Women’s Alliance of Zanskar, Anjuman Moin-ul Islam, and youth organisations will play a crucial role in shaping the future of the region. These groups must be empowered to participate actively in the planning and implementation of development projects while ensuring that the voices of all communities are heard.

Conclusion

The road ahead for Zangskar includes challenges and opportunities. As the region transitions into a new district, it is essential to approach this moment with a clear vision and a commitment to inclusive and sustainable development. The responsibility now lies with leaders, civil society, and the broader community to craft a strategy that addresses the region’s immediate needs while laying the groundwork for long-term prosperity. This is a momentous opportunity to correct past wrongs, address longstanding issues, and chart a course for sustainable progress. If Zangskar uses this opportunity with wisdom and foresight, it can become a model for inclusive growth and development in Ladakh and beyond. However, if not managed carefully, the future could be one of continued stagnation and unfulfilled potential. The decisions made in the coming months will shape the destiny of Zangskar for generations to come, and it is crucial that the region rises to the challenge.

By Dr Jamphel Sheyan

Dr Jamphel Sheyan is Assistant Professor at Government Degree College, Zangskar.

No jubilation over five new districts in Ladakh

To everyone’s surprise, Government of India recently announced, in one stroke, the creation of five new districts for Ladakh in addition to the existing two districts of Leh and Kargil. It was a historic decision as there was a hope only for two new districts—Zangskar and Nubra. There were no persistent demands for the creation of Drass, Sham and Changthang as separate districts.

Therefore, the BJP-led government deserves a word of congratulations from the people of Ladakh. However, on 26 August, 2024 when five new districts were declared, one did not find much jubilation among the people in Leh town, though it was natural for BJP workers to celebrate the decision.

Here, it is important to mention that before the year 1979, Ladakh constituted of a single district with its headquarters in Leh. Later, in response to demands from the people of Kargil, the Sheikh Abdullah-led state government bifurcated Ladakh into two districts: Leh and Kargil. After this, Zangskar was granted special Sub-Divisional status within the dominion of Kargil district. Prior to this, Zangskar was provided with a post of revenue officer called Tehsildar to administrate the region as it would remain disconnected from the rest of Ladakh for five to six months each year in the winter.

Now with the grant of five more districts, the question arises: What will be the shape and scope of the newly-created districts? Will these five districts have Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Councils (LAHDCs) like the Hill Councils in Leh and Kargil? Or will they be subsidiary districts with a Deputy Commissioner and a Superintendent of Police? This sort of critical questions and discussions will emerge in the coming months as Government of India has asked the Administration of UT of Ladakh to look into the administrative implications, frame the necessary modalities, including creation of posts and location of the headquarters of respective districts, and estimate the required budgets for this exercise.

Needless to mention, Ladakh is a sparsely-populated region with harsh climatic conditions and bare mountains and a cold desert ecosystem. Over the years, the government has invested sufficient funds to uplift the living standards of the people of the region. However, due to limited government job opportunities for the educated youth of backward pockets in the region, they have not been able to compete with job aspirant from other parts of the region that have better facilities for studies and coaching etc. It is not surprising that the population from border areas of Leh district continues to shrink with people migrating to the affluent urban areas such as Leh. This situation impacts Leh town, and its residents are facing many challenges due to frequent traffic jams and increased environmental hazards and risks.

Over the last 25 years, a sea change has been observed in the functioning of the administration of Ladakh. After struggling for over five decades since India’s Independence, two Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Councils were created in 1995. Ironically, though the government granted LAHDC, headed by a Chief Executive Councillor and four Executive Councillors, it did not create an appreciable number of posts in government departments. Hence, dissatisfaction increased among the people and they started demanding a separate revenue or administrative division called Ladakh Division with the erstwhile Jammu and Kashmir state.

In response to various demands from the people of Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh, Government of India constituted a three-member team of interlocutors to study the administrative grievances of the people and finally a recommendation was included in the report by the interlocutors that Ladakh should be separated from Kashmir Division and be made a separate division. But there was no headway in this direction.

In this connection, I being an experienced retired government official, took up the issue to make Ladakh a separate division. As a humble citizen, I raised the issue of granting division status to Ladakh at the bi-annual colloquium of International Association of Ladakh Studies held at Heidelberg, Germany in 2013. My subsequent writings on the issue were published in the prestigious daily newspapers such as Daily Excelsior, Greater Kashmir, and Kashmir Times. In due course, Government of India finally granted divisional status to Ladakh in 2019. The process of creating Ladakh as a separate division was in motion when yet another resolution from Government of India was passed to make Ladakh a Union Territory in 2019.

Today, Ladakh is passing through multiple administrative and political upheavals. I do not anticipate that the creation of five more districts will satisfy the aspirations of the people of Ladakh. This includes Apex Body, Leh and Kargil Democratic Alliance that are spearheading the agitation for statehood to Ladakh, constitutional safeguards under the Sixth Schedule, two Lok Sabha and one Rajya Sabha seats for Ladakh, and a Ladakh Public Service Commission to fill vacancies in government departments. I see no reason why Government of India would consider granting statehood to Ladakh as there are already 10 Councillors in the LAHDCs in Leh and Kargil who enjoy ministerial status, drawing all facilities that are due to a cabinet minister in a state. However, it is not clear why Government of India is reluctant to bring Ladakh under the purview of Sixth Schedule of the Indian constitution. The people of Ladakh are among the most loyal citizens of the country who have been working hard for the unity and integrity of the country.

By Nawang Tsering Shakspo

Nawang Tsering Shakspo is Director of Centre for Research on Ladakh, Saboo

Misuse of sports infrastructure in Ladakh

Recently, I filed a formal complaint with Secretary, Youth Services and Sports Department, Administration of UT of Ladakh, Shri Vikram Singh Malik, IAS and the Hon’ble Executive Councillor in LAHDC, Leh for Youth Services and Sports, Shri Tsering Angchuk. In my letters, I drew attention to a serious public grievance regarding the use of Nawang Dorjay Stobdan (NDS) Indoor Stadium, a government-owned public sports stadium, for private events and activities unrelated to sports. This has caused inconvenience and been a hindrance to sportspersons who use the stadium regularly for practice and training, especially handball and badminton.

My letter was sparked by a series of non-sports events being hosted inside the stadium. This included the Ladakh dPal rNgam Duston celebrations for which the stadium was shut for two days. This was followed by the stadium being shut from 13 to 15 August for an event related to Independence Day for which metal poles were installed in the stadium for tents. The installation of these metal poles caused irrevocable damage to the professional-grade mats that have been used for the courts at the stadium. This has compromised the safety and quality of the infrastructure for sports activities.

Furthermore, the indoor stadium was then handed over to Ladakh Marathon for 21 days for use to conduct various back-end activities. The use of this specific space is not a necessity for conducting the marathon and an alternate space could easily have been allotted for this activity. The allotment of NDS indoor stadium for backend activities for Ladakh Marathon will further hinder the players and athletes from accessing this public infrastructure.

I personally use this stadium on a regular basis for badminton along with a number of others who pursue this sport for leisure as well as a potential career. In addition, handball coaching takes place at the stadium every morning for school students. The repeated closure of the stadium and the damage that is caused to its facilities not only undermines the quality of the infrastructure but also deprives sportspersons of the opportunity to practice and pursue these disciplines.

Thus, in my letter I requested the secretary to intervene and ensure that no non-sports events or activities are allowed in the stadium to preserve its primary purpose for sports and training. I also asked that the stadium’s infrastructure be protected from damage caused by non-sports events. Finally, I requested him to prioritise sportspersons and players who regularly use the stadium for practice and training. I also requested him to cancel the permit for the private event and to provide the organisers with an alternative space for their activities.

In response to my letter, a meeting was held with the organisers of Ladakh Marathon in the presence of various government officials on 16 August at the Deputy Commissioner’s office in Leh. In light of the arguments and objections raised, the stadium was made accessible until 20 August. After this, the organisers of Ladakh Marathon will be allowed to use NDS until 11 September as the event and venue details have already been publicised with more than 6,000 registrants from Ladakh, India and abroad. However, the administration has agreed to the request that such events are not held at NDS indoor stadium in the future. Unfortunately, this is a not a new trend. In the past, similar events have been organised at various sporting facilities ranging from exhibitions to electioneering. However, given the importance that is being attached to promoting sports and healthy lifestyles, it is ironic the sports infrastructure continues to be used for non-sport activities. I sincerely hope that the Administration of UT of Ladakh ensures that sports infrastructure in the region is only used for sports-related activities and remain accessible throughout the year.

Photographs and text by Smanla Dorje Nurboo

Smanla Dorje Nurboo is Councillor from Saspol in LAHDC, Leh

Decision for new districts requires clarification, discussion

Recently, tweets from the Ministry of Home Affairs, Government of India and the personal handle of the Minister of Home Affairs, Amit Shah declared that Ladakh will have five new districts. However, there has been no official order or circular in this regard beyond the tweet. Sources report that this will not become a reality before 2028.

Many senior leaders have held press conferences on this issue while others have commented on social media. However, I feel it is important to share my perspective as a youth. First of all, I believe it is too early to celebrate this development. We had celebrated enthusiastically when Ladakh was given ‘Union Territory’ status in 2019 and then soon discovered that we did not have the necessary safeguards. This unified us as we held agitations, protests and hunger strikes to demand safeguards. We continue to protest peacefully and hold dialogues with the Ministry of Home Affairs (MHA), Government of India. As youth, we have been following the leadership of Kaga Thupstan Chhewang, Kaga Tsering Dorjey Lakrook and Kaga Sonam Wangchuk who have been sharing their experience, knowledge and vision.

The decision to create five new districts in Ladakh has raised a number of questions. Firstly, what kind of districts will they be? Will they have full administrative powers? What sort of decision-making power will grassroots-level elected representatives have in these new districts? Since Ladakh became a Union Territory, there has been criticism that the power and authority of elected representatives in decision-making has diminished dramatically.

Also, what will be the process for job creation and formation of posts in the new districts? Since 2019, Apex Body, Leh and Kargil Democratic Alliance (KDA) have been raising several demands including inclusion under Sixth Schedule of the Indian constitution and the need to urgently address the issue of unemployment and youth-related issues. These issues are particularly pressing. Despite dialogues with the Ministry of Home Affairs, there has been no substantial progress on either of these issues and youth in Ladakh are growing increasingly frustrated. Many youth are crossing the age limit to apply for various government jobs and there is continued uncertainty about the creation of gazette posts or a dedicated public service.

When the government announced the five new districts, there was widespread celebration on social media. However, we should be cautious not to repeat the mistakes of 2019 when we celebrated Ladakh becoming a UT only to realise in due course that there was no democratic representation and the absence of essential safeguards. I hope this will not be the case with the new districts.

In addition, the unemployment issue has still not been addressed in a meaningful way. Apex Body, Leh and KDA have met twice this year. It also held a meeting with BJP’s Ladakh unit, where it was decided that the BJP’s leaders from Ladakh would act as a bridge between Government of India and the leaders of Apex Body, Leh-KDA. A request has been sent to resume discussions on the four-point agenda at the earliest. While the announcement of the new districts is an important step, it is crucial that such developments do not undermine or derail the four-point agenda. I urge Government of India to show the same decisiveness it has showed with the declaration of five districts and include Ladakh under the Sixth Schedule to protect our environment, culture, and traditions. The youth of Ladakh are frustrated, and our environment, culture, and traditions are at stake. We are grateful for the new districts but hope that the issues of unemployment and the Sixth Schedule are also addressed.

By Stanzin Chosphel

Stanzin Chosphel is a youth activist.

Bhoti or Ladakhi: What should we call our language?

The nomenclature ‘Bhoti’ is a Sanskrit term that is said to have been coined by a group of Tibetology scholars around five decades back with reference to the widely spread Himalayan cultural, liturgical and literary language. However, it actually denoted the script invented by Thonmi Sambhota—the able minister of King Songtsan Sgampo of Tibet—who adapted it from the Brahmi script at Nalanda (Indian subcontinent) in the Seventh Century. The main reason for calling the Himalayan language ‘Bhoti’ was to increase the importance of the proposal for recognition of the language under the Eight Schedule of the Indian Constitution.

Scholars in Ladakh, however, are split on this idea. One group claims that ‘Bhoti’ refers to Classical Tibetan as the religious and cultural language of the people of the Himalayan region stretching from Baltistan to Arunachal Pradesh. They support the use of ‘Bhoti’ for literary purposes and constitutional recognition. Others champion the use of ‘Ladakhi’ for recognition. They argue that it is a language that belongs to the Tibeto-Burman language group of the Sino-Tibetan language family that is spoken across the Himalayan region with regional variations and names. The language group includes Balti in Baltistan, Ladakhi in Ladakh, Lahuli in Lahul and Spiti, Bhutia in Sikkim, and Tamang and Lepcha in Arunachal Pradesh.

On the one hand, we have scholars such as Assistant Professor at Central University of Jharkhand, Ranchi, Dr. Konchok Tashi who terms this bond as “broader identity formation” that links diverse communities of the Himalayan region though none of them formally refer to their language as ‘Bhoti’. On the other hand, we have scholars such as Former Director of Culture Academy, Leh, Nawang Tsering Shakspo who disagrees with the use of the term ‘Bhoti’. He argues that a language by the name of ‘Bhoti’ does not exist and it is best to push for inclusion of the language spoken in Ladakh as ‘Ladakhi’.

He explained, “I had approached Sahitya Akademi—India’s National Academy of Letters—for recognition of Ladakhi as an Indian language in 1980. My submission was received favourably. The General Council of Sahitya Akademi had agreed in principle to grant recognition to Ladakhi along with Awadhi as Indian languages subject to availability of funds from the government. If all lovers of Ladakhi language, (or Bhoti for the matter) had supported my submission at the time and desisted from championing Bhoti, Ladakhi would have been recognised as an Indian language and many Ladakhi writers and scholars would have received recognition through prestigious Sahitya Akademi awards.”

With regard to the effort to gain recognition under ‘Bhoti’, Nawang Tsering Shakspo explained, “In the meantime, the Himalayan Buddhist Cultural Association, New Delhi, was promoting the Bhoti issue with vigour. Its leader, Lama Chosphel Zodpa was appointed as a Member of the Minorities Commission and he managed to push this issue to a fairly high level. He received support from several prominent leaders, including Union Ministers such as the late George Fernandes. The Central Institute of Indian Languages (CIIL), Mysore was thus obliged to send a team of linguists to conduct a socio-linguistic survey of Bhoti language across the Himalayan region. The team was led by Deputy Director of CIIL, Mysore, Prof. Rajesh Sachdeva. They started their survey from Ladakh in September 2008 and visited other Himalayan states through to March 2009. The survey team visited many households in Leh to check how many people called their mother tongue ‘Bhoti’. They were amazed to find that a negligible number of Ladakhis used the term ‘Bhoti’. On the final day of the survey in Ladakh, Prof. Rajesh Sachdeva convened a meeting of Ladakhi writers and scholars to gather feedback on their work.”

He explained that the meeting opened with a welcome speech by the then Director of Central Institute of Buddhist Studies, Leh, Dr Nawang Tsering. He narrated, “In his speech, the director said that according to language surveys conducted in India prior to 1900, there were around 10,000 people who spoke Ladakhi and by 1980, this number had increased to 110,000. He then added that ‘Your demand is to call this language Bhoti and wipe out the name of Ladakhi. If you succeed, then in the near future, there will be a question about the fate of the Ladakhi speakers recorded earlier!”

I had assumed that Sikkimese Bhutias would support the demand for recognition of Bhoti as the two names are somewhat similar. However, in a letter to Himalayan Buddhist Cultural Association, New Delhi, which was signed by the Special Secretary, Home Department, Government of Sikkim and dated 22 January, 2007, they wrote, “Bhutia language should be considered for inclusion in the Eight schedule of the Constitution”.

Similarly, Ladakhi language was formally recognised as ‘Ladakhi’ in the Sixth Schedule of the erstwhile state of Jammu & Kashmir through the 1951 rule adopted by the first State Re-organisation Commission to give state-level recognition for languages spoken by 70% of a district’s population.

In its issue of 6 March, 2008, Outlook Magazine carried the following report, “The ruling Sikkim Democratic Front government today demanded the inclusion of Bhutia (Bhooti), Lepcha and Limboo languages in the Eighth Schedule of the Constitution. A resolution seeking the inclusion of the languages in the Eighth Schedule was moved by the Human Resources Development Minister, Garjaman Gurung in the Assembly. The resolution was adopted unanimously.” It goes on to mention that the state government sought to justify the resolution on the grounds that the three indigenous languages are widely spoken and taught in schools and colleges across the state, and are recognised as official languages of the state. The article added that the state government intended to send a proposal to Government of India for recognition of these languages.

Thus, three major so-called Bhoti speaking ethnic groups in the North-eastern Himalayan region have already proposed that their languages be recognised as their own names. This is backed by a resolution passed by the Sikkim Legislative Assembly. Despite this, we in Ladakh seem to be imposing the name ‘Bhoti’ on all the ethnic groups in the Northeast. How will this benefit Ladakh?

Bhoti might provide an overarching framework to bring together the Indian Himalayan regions. However, if Ladakhi is recognised under ‘Bhoti’ it will lead to several challenges. Since ‘Bhoti’ refers to the cultural, religious and literary language of Classical Tibetan, most Ladakhis hesitate to use it to refer to their language. Furthermore, Ladakh’s Muslim community would have reservations about the language if it is called ‘Bhoti’ as it seems associated with Buddhism. On the other hand, the name ‘Ladakhi’ provides self-identification and a sense of proprietorship over the language that we speak in Ladakh.

The Sikkimese government has already given recognition to ‘Bhutia’ and it is taught in its educational institutions. Bhutia scholar, Bhaichung Tshering Bhutia has written, “It was in 1977 that Government of Sikkim recognised Bhutia language as one of the official languages and introduced it in schools of Sikkim. In 1987, the CBSE recognised Bhutia language at the Secondary and Senior Secondary levels. After that the North Bengal University recognised Bhutia language as one of the major Indian languages in the colleges of Sikkim from the academic session 2000-2001. In 2008, it was introduced as an elective subject in colleges across Sikkim under Sikkim Central University.” In 2016, it also introduced a master’s course in Bhutia.

It addition to these two schools of thoughts, there are some scholars in Ladakh who advocate for use of the term ‘Tibetan’ for Ladakhi. If this is accepted, it would create new political challenges and have literary implications. Tibetan language has already been granted affiliation by CBSE as ‘Tibetan’ and it will cause confusion if the language we speak is recognised under the same name.

In 2023, Ladakh would have an estimated 300,000 Ladakhi speakers along with its own TV and radio channels that broadcast in Ladakhi. Likewise, Ladakh also has had several periodicals such as Ladags Phonya, Ladakh Sargyur, Ladags Melong, Ladakh Studies, and Reach Ladakh Bulletin. Over the years, people in Ladakh have produced hundreds of feature films and song albums in Ladakhi. Similarly, over 300 books in Ladakhi have been published by the J&K Academy of Art, Culture and Languages.

Having considered all these arguments, I support the use of the term ‘Ladakhi’ to describe our language in the proposal for recognition under the Eight Schedule of the Indian Constitution. I doubt any other name will help keep our ethnic group and language identity intact in the future.

By Khanpo K. Sherab

Khanpo K. Sherab is Research OfficeratSongtsen Library, Center for Tibetan and Himalayan Studies, Dehradoon.

Save our boys!

I never really considered the question of our boys earlier as like everyone else, I was in the Beti padao  beti bachao mode! This changed when I was looking at the list of doctors selected for government jobs: There were more Ladakhi girls than boys on it. This got me thinking. Most offices in Leh seem to be dominated by women. Generally, the few males present perform lower-level jobs like say a security guard or a driver. While I respect all jobs, it does make you wonder about our boys!

I decided to do a headcount in the two offices to which I have easy access: SNM Hospital, Leh and Sub District Hospital, Nubra. I found that a majority of the staff are women. There were 285 females and 70 males in the staff at SNM, while the number of doctors is equal at 25 each. In SDH, Nubra, we have 62 females and 28 males in the staff, and four of the seven doctors are female. In addition, three other lady-doctors look after other parts of Nubra in Panamik, Turtuk, and Bogdang.

So where are all the men? This question sounds logical in a district headed by two women officers. The Deputy Commissioner and the SSP are both successful lady officers. In January, a Ladakhi girl lead India’s first daredevil biker’s group at the Republic Day parade in New Delhi. The Indian women’s ice hockey team, which is made up of Ladakhis, has started creating waves at different levels. The sex ratio in India is mostly skewed in favour of males and even in Ladakh the number of males is slightly higher than females.

Girls are taught to be independent from an early age. They are expected to help in the kitchen and with household chores, while boys are excluded from these ‘un-manly’ tasks. In most societies, girls are expected to stay indoors, while boys are allowed to roam about! Girls in Ladakh grow up in an insecure environment, which seems to work in their favour. Parents advise them to study even as they pamper the boys. Girls are told from an early age that she will leave the parents’ house and all that she will get is a perak, while her brother will live in the family house!

In Ladakh, many people own hotels and guest houses, and boys are expected to run the family business if he doesn’t get a job. The girl is expected to study well and move to her husband’s home after marriage. So the boys grow up with back up plans in the tourist industry, the army, and the family business. For girls, their plan A has to work! This sense of exclusion seems to be working in favour of our girls as they have to fight various odds and stay focused. They grow up to become confident and self-reliant young ladies. And when they go outside Ladakh to study or work, they go as independent individuals who can sustain and manage themselves well. The boys, on the other hand, become proud after learning to cook instant noodles!

With access to work in the tourism sector and with the army, boys become accustomed to ‘easy money’ from an early age. Although many of them do become independent and mature adults, many become addicted to drugs, alcohol and sex. In many cases, financial independence makes them vulnerable to addictive use of gadgets and consumption of pornography from an early age. They in turn cause harm to others in their peer group.

So where are our men? Most Ladakhi men are successful businessmen, politicians, hoteliers, entrepreneurs, and soldiers. Yet, many others are plagued by bankruptcy, alcoholism, substance addiction, and hooliganism and are considered to be threats to society. More recently, we have started hearing of various crimes being committed by Ladakhis, which we would blame on outsiders earlier. Most of these crimes are being committed by Ladakhi boys who are unemployed or doing petty jobs. We urgently need to help our boys. Our girls seem to be on the right track! We need to ensure that our boys grow up to become independent and self-reliant individuals. We need to ensure that they follow the lead of our girls to complete their studies. Parents must always treat their children equally and never discriminate between them. We must take our sons to the kitchen and have them help in preparing food and cleaning dishes. They must be taught to clean their room, wash dishes, and clothes. I say, “Save the boy child, the girls are shining. Beta bachao, beta padao!”

Editor’s note: This article was originally written and published in 2018

By Dr. Spalchen Gonbo

Dr. Spalchen Gonbo is a Paediatrician based in Leh.

The arrogant Ladakhi: Myth or reality?

Tourism has emerged as the backbone of Ladakh’s economy over the last few decades. Hoteliers, guest-house owners, shopkeepers, antique-dealers, pony-men, guides, taxi drivers and a significant section of society depend on tourism for their livelihood. There has been a dramatic growth in tourism over the last decade and a half. This is reflected in the mushrooming of hotels and guest houses and an increase in the number of commercial vehicles. This has made tourism in Ladakh a fairly tough and competitive business sector.

In 2022, more than 500,000 tourists visited Ladakh, which marks the highest number of visitors in a year so far. However, the number of tourists has fallen to less than half that number, and as summer winds down the tourist season is also about to end. As a result of this downturn, many hotels have closed early this year and many hoteliers have discharged their staff members or limited the number of hotel staff. Initially, people solely blamed the cancellation of Go Air flights and the resulting increase in airfares to Leh for the downturn. However, even after airfares decreased the number of tourists in Ladakh remained low. This resulted in anxiety among people in the tourism sector. Many people started arguing that Ladakh is not a sustainable tourism destination. Thus, it is reasonable to assume that there are many factors that have caused the downturn in tourism. We need to identify these reasons, analyse them and introspect over them.

Most visitors perceive Ladakh primarily as a tourist destination. The dominant perception is that Ladakh is an expensive destination, especially in terms of transportation. I have heard people comment that for the amount of money required to visit Ladakh one can travel to an international destination such as Dubai, Singapore, Hong Kong and Bangkok.

Many people have enjoyable holidays in Ladakh but there are many others who have had bad experiences while travelling in the region. This does not mean that the people in the tourism sector are bad. In fact, most people are polite, honest, and sensible people. I remember an incident that took place in 2021. A Ladakhi taxi driver found a mobile phone somewhere in Changthang. He along with a friend traced the owner of the phone to his address in Mumbai. The phone contained important personal data and information. The owner of the phone was happy and relieved to get the phone back. He offered the taxi driver Rs 50,000 for his efforts and honesty. However, the latter refused and finally accepted Rs 10,000 as the person insisted on giving him some sort of reward.

However, the misbehaviour, greed, arrogance and conduct of a few people in Ladakh gives the whole region a bad name. For instance, the number of tourists doubled in 2022 as compared to preceding years and many people expected this to remain stable for the next few years. Some decided to take advantage of this. I have seen some hoteliers who increased the cost of food at their restaurants, some even doubling it over existing rates, without necessarily improving the menu. Travel agencies who use these hotels for clients were confused and irritated by this sudden increase in rates.

I have also heard reports that some proprietors at Pangong-tso would pretend that their tents were fully occupied even for clients who had pre-booked tents through their agency. It is difficult to sleep in the open at an altitude of 12,000 feet above mean sea level. These tented accommodations are generally priced at Rs 5,000 per night. However, these unscrupulous proprietors would claim they were full to push the price up and the tourists were desperate enough to pay Rs 10,000 a night for a tent. The clients complained to the agency on their return and the agency in turn cancelled future night stay at these establishments at Pangong-tso. Thus, these proprietors had to pay a high price for their greed and dishonesty.

Similarly, many taxi drivers removed the luggage carrier from their vehicles to reduce its loading capacity. In addition, they would only take four passengers even though the administration had permitted them to ferry six passengers at a time. In addition, many drivers were reluctant to pay the customary commission given to hoteliers. Furthermore, many taxi drivers are hesitant to take clients for local sightseeing around Leh town as they earn more for trips to Nubra and Pangong-tso. Consequently, those who do agree for local sightseeing trips have started charging more than the prescribed rate.

I have heard of an incident where a taxi driver charged a couple INR 2,000 for the journey from Leh airport to their hotel located 4 km away. He took them to their hotel through a roundabout route. The couple later discovered that the trip should have cost them Rs 500. I have also heard some hotel owners speak about how some drivers complain that their clients take “too many photographs” on the way and waste their time. There was also one incident where a driver insisted on smoking cigarettes in the vehicle in the presence of his passengers.

Such experiences create a very bad impression of Ladakh and its people. Most successful businesspersons would agree that honesty, uprightness and mutual trust are prerequisites for success. This is also reflected in popular culture with the fable that warns us against killing the ‘goose that lays golden eggs’. The fable talks about a greedy person killing the goose to collect all the golden eggs at one go to become wealthy in an instant. The fable ends in certain doom for such a greedy person. We must pay heed to the wisdom of this fable.

Thus, one should resist any temptation to fleece tourists. In the long term, this will certainly ruin tourism as a whole. In addition, it will also have adverse impacts on society. Thus, exorbitant airfares may have contributed to the downturn in tourism but it is imperative that we also reflect on our own weaknesses and shortcomings. Self-reflection and constructive criticism are important qualities for long-term success.

Prior to independence, Ladakh was open for tourism and in the summers, a limited number of tourists, around 200-300, would visit the region. They would stay in the region for longer periods than tourists nowadays and later write about their experiences. There are hundreds of travelogues written by these travellers through the 19th and early 20th Centuries, which provide us with a wealth of insights into Ladakh in that period and the experiences of these travellers.These travelogues invariably praise Ladakhis for their honesty, simplicity and truthfulness. These writers mentioned that despite material poverty, pony-men, porters, cooks etc. were content and did not try to extort more money from travellers.

As mentioned earlier, Ladakh is already an expensive destination with respect to transportation and stay. Greed and opportunism makes some people make it even more expensive by unilaterally increasing their rates for taxi and stay. This causes unnecessary unpleasantness and harms Ladakh. It is thus not surprising when we hear tourists speaking about ‘arrogant’ people they encounter during their trip. For instance, I remember a Ladakhi student telling me about someone once asking them about their native place. When the student replied, “Ladakh”, the person replied curtly, “They looted us!” Furthermore, there are several videos online about people sharing their negative experiences in Ladakh. I remember one where a man is pointing towards a barren mountain and telling viewers that there is nothing to see in Ladakh. He told his viewers not to waste their time and money by visiting Ladakh. On seeing the video, my first reaction was that this man must have suffered some bad experiences in Ladakh and the video was his way of indirectly venting his frustration.

Unfortunately, the problem is not confined to the relationship between tourists and tourism-related personnel. There are many problems within the tourism sector too. Hoteliers report that some travel agents are notorious for not paying their dues to the hotels they use. I have heard hoteliers joke that it is easier to run a hotel than to recover money from some travel agents! Many travel agencies do not pay their dues in time even after repeated demands. Some do not pay at all and as a result lose credibility with the hotels who then refuse to provide them with rooms. Similarly, there was high demand for taxis in 2022 and there are some reports of travel agents cheating taxi drivers, especially non-Ladakhi drivers who were roped in to meet the demand. Such people are a menace to society and they give Ladakh a bad name.

I have also heard local shopkeepers and vegetable vendors complain that some hoteliers refuse to pay them on time for various essential commodities and vegetables purchased from them on credit. One vegetable vendor spoke about a specific hotelier who had outstanding dues of over INR 10 lakh (INR 1 million) and was showing no signs of clearing any of it!

Thus, when people argue that tourism in Ladakh is not sustainable I cannot help but think of such incidents that make it even more unsustainable. We must not forget that economic cycles are temporary while a bad business culture can cause permanent damage. I think good conduct can go a long way in making tourism more sustainable. In this regard, social leaders, business people, community leaders, politicians, media-persons and members of civil society must come forward to help reflect, identify such challenges and instil better practices in our everyday lives.

Editor’s note: We have withheld the identity of the writer on request.