Decentralising waste management in Leh

Leh is the cultural and administrative heart of the Indian Himalayas. It is now confronting a mounting solid waste management (SWM) crisis. According to the Waste Flow Diagram Report for Leh (2024), the town generates seven to eight tonnes of waste daily in the winter, which escalates dramatically to 30–40 tonnes during the tourist season in the summer. Alarmingly, only about one-third of this waste is collected in summer, while in winter nearly half of the waste generated is left unattended. This imbalance results in over 3,000 tonnes of waste accumulating each year in streets, drains, and open spaces around Leh town causing increased environmental and public health risks.

The Waste-Wise Cities report by the Centre for Science and Environment (CSE) and NITI Aayog identifies Leh as having the highest per capita waste generation among small Indian towns. This underscores the pressures of modern consumption patterns, seasonal tourism, and urban expansion on the fragile Himalayan ecosystem.

Source: The Waste-Wise Cities Report by Centre for Science and Environment and NITI Aayog

Tourism: A double-edged sword

Tourism significantly amplifies waste generation. Summer months bring surges of PET bottles, multi-layered plastics, and snack packaging, which overwhelm waste collection systems. Narrow lanes, steep terrain, and heavy snowfall in winter further impede the transport of waste to the central Skampari facility, resulting in extended delays and intermittent collection.

Population projections indicate a steady growth trajectory, with the combined population of Leh and Choglamsar expected to reach 81,654 by 2030, up from 66,712 in 2023. Employing a weighted per capita waste generation of 0.39 kg/day in winter and 0.99 kg/day in summer, the town could be producing over 60 tonnes of waste daily by 2030, translating to more than 22,000 tonnes annually.

YearCombined PopulationEstimated Waste (t/day)Estimated Annual Waste (t)
202366,71249.518,073
202468,78651.118,650
202565,86048.917,848
202671,08952.819,272
202766,66049.518,068
202877,00457.220,858
202979,32958.921,500
203081,65460.622,109

Why centralised systems fail in the mountains

For some years, Leh has relied on the Skampari Material Recovery Facility (MRF) as its primary waste processing hub. While indispensable, the facility faces critical constraints: outdated machinery, manpower shortages, and inefficiencies in transporting waste from different parts of the town. During peak tourist seasons, this centralised system is frequently overwhelmed, resulting in uncollected waste accumulating in public spaces.

Executive Officer of Municipal Committee Leh (MCL), Stanzin Rabgais said, “Waste is a serious problem during the peak tourist season, and our plants are already operating beyond capacity. Decentralisation is the way forward, and we are actively developing a comprehensive decentralised SWM plan in partnership with LEDeG.”

Leh’s MRF stretched to its limits during the summer, which is the peak season of waste generation.

The case for decentralisation

Decentralised waste facilities in Leh are not merely add-ons to the central system but critical nodes within an integrated, zonal approach to solid waste management. Instead of long-haul transport to a single overburdened plant, waste streams are stabilised closer to their point of generation. Wet waste is managed through climate-adapted modular units—composting or bio-methanation systems calibrated for small daily loads (1–10 TPD) with thermal regulation and renewable energy inputs, ensuring operability even in sub-zero winters. Dry waste flows are aggregated at strategically located material recovery clusters, designed for efficient segregation and market linkages with regional recyclers.

These decentralised nodes build upon familiar community practices but are engineered to contemporary standards of resource recovery and emission control. When fully scaled, such a network can divert a significant amount of organic fractions and recyclables away from landfills, cut hundreds of annual truck trips, and prevent significant methane and carbon dioxide emissions. Beyond environmental gains, they create a visible ward-level accountability structure, embed service delivery within the urban fabric, and open up new livelihood avenues in composting, recycling, and facility management. If scaled town-wide, these systems could achieve up to 90% diversion of waste fractions, balancing technical credibility with measurable outcomes.

Geographic imperatives for decentralised systems

Leh’s challenging topography, steep lanes, scattered settlements, and icy winters renders a single centralised facility impractical. Establishing a network of smaller, climate-resilient plants proximate to waste generation points would minimise transportation distances, reduce operational costs, and curtail environmental impacts. Wet waste could be composted on-site, recyclables processed locally, and residuals safely disposed to create a tiered, efficient, and contextually adapted SWM system.

Towards a waste-wise Leh

By 2030, Leh will generate an estimated 22,000 tonnes or more annually, with daily peaks exceeding 60 tonnes. Without decisive interventions, these volumes risk overwhelming municipal infrastructure, escalating environmental degradation, and compromising public health.

Decentralisation is no longer optional; it is essential for sustainable urban management in mountain contexts. As Stanzin Rabgais explained, “Centralised systems alone cannot keep pace with rising consumption, seasonal tourism, or the realities of mountain life. Localised solutions are the only viable path forward.”

Through strategic integration of modern decentralised facilities, community engagement, and engineered community practices. Leh town is at a crossroad. Continue with an overstretched centralised system, or pioneer a decentralised model that keeps the mountain region clean, resilient, and future-ready. The choice is urgent, but the opportunity is transformative.

By Stanzin Odsal

Stanzin Odsal is an urban planner and environmental researcher based in Leh. He is also the co-founder of Plannable Co., which is dedicated to urban, rural and heritage planning solutions in the Himalayas.

Microplastics in Ladakh’s water bodies

Microplastics (MP) are plastic particles less than 5mm in size. Based on their sources, microplastics can be classified as primary and secondary. Primary microplastics are intentionally manufactured in small sizes such as in cosmetics and cleaning agents. Secondary microplastics are from the breakdown of larger plastics such as plastic bottles and ropes.  In recent years, microplastics pollution has attracted a lot of attention and research. Microplastics are considered as an emerging pollutant and found everywhere. They are carriers of other harmful substances such as pharmaceutical compounds and heavy metals. Research indicates that microplastics negatively impact human health.

As part of this growing research interest and the importance of microplastics studies in the environment, an assessment of microplastic pollution in the sediment of freshwater sources in the Indian Himalayas was conducted. The studied sites include the Brahmaputra river, the Indus river, and major lakes in Ladakh namely Pangong-tso, Tsomoriri, and Tso Kar. These freshwater sources, particularly the lakes in Ladakh, serve as a natural laboratory for the environmental assessment of pollutants due to their remote location and minimal urbanisation activities.

The sample collection of shore sediments from the lakes and rivers was conducted from 2018 to 2019. The collected samples were then pre-treated and analysed for microplastics in the laboratory. The results, which have been published in the journal Science of the Total Environment, indicated that microplastics were detected in all the sampling sites. Of the rivers, Brahmaputra has the highest microplastic abundance with a concentration of 3,505 MP/kg dw with a size range of 20–5,000 µm followed by the Indus with a microplastic concentration of 1,994 MP/kg dw. Among the lakes, Tsomoriri has the highest microplastic concentration of 3,800 MP/kg dw with a size range of 100–5,000 µm.

Fragment-shaped microplastics were mostly found. This indicates that the sources of microplastics in the studied sites could be from larger plastic particles such as plastic bottles and packaging. In general, some of the most used MP include polypropylene (PP), polyethylene (PE), polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polystyrene (PS), polyamide (PA) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Similarly, PP and PE were the most detected polymer types in the studied rivers and lakes. In addition, other polymer types such as PS, PET, PVC, and PA were also detected.

Different microplastics detected in the study sites. (A-B): PE,
(C) PET, (D) PS, (E): PA and (F-H): PP (Image courtesy: Tsering, 2022).

However, the reported concentration and characteristics of microplastics in the detected sites should not be considered as a fixed value as microplastic analytics are dependent on the method of sampling, pretreatment, and analysis. The sources of microplastics in the freshwater sources of the Indian Himalayas could be varied including atmospheric transport, waste from tourists, improper waste management, and glacial retreat. However, waste from tourists and improper waste management could be the most potential sources of microplastics in the rivers and lakes in Ladakh. The lakes in Ladakh are tourist spots from May to September. Therefore, the seasonal visit of tourists with improper waste management could be a potential source. Further research is needed with long-term assessment and monitoring of microplastics that could provide clearer information on the source of microplastics.

By Dr. Tenzin Tsering

Dr. Tenzin Tsering completed her doctorate degree from LUT University in Finland.

The curious case of the Ladakhi cow

When in doubt, an ancient Ladakhi proverb wisely suggests that we should pay heed to what people do instead of what they say: Mi-sper la ma-nyan; mi-chos la stos. The wisdom of this proverb is evident in the saga of Ladakhi cows. Allow me to take you back a few years to help you understand the shifting fortunes of this humble but hardy animal.

In the 1970s, Ladakh was opened to visitors from outside and the introduction of modern technology. This included ideas of modernity and development. Ladakh had survived several centuries with its meagre population that was largely self-reliant and self-contained. During this period, the local Ladakhi cow was the major source of milk, which was used to produce butter, cheese, curd, and other dairy products. These animals were an integral part of each household and Ladakhi society at large. This was supported by pragmatic institutions such as bares, which distributed cow grazing duties amongst members of a village community. This ensured that there were norms of reciprocity within the village and no one was over-burdened with responsibilities related to caring for these animals.

Around the 1980s, there was a gradual shift in the way local cows were perceived. People started regarding them as a ‘low-yielding’ breed in terms of their daily milk output. This led to the introduction of high-yielding cows such as Holstein-Friesian (HF), which were actively supported by various research organisations and government departments.

Around the 1990s, the Jersey breed of cow was actively recommended at various forums, including seminars and workshops. We in Ladakh followed the general trend and started recommending Jersey as the most appropriate breed for Ladakh. Jersey was said to have a good yield and could be grazed on our pastures unlike the HF, which had to be stall-fed.

In the haste of increasing yields, which is considered a major factor of modern development, we introduced these two foreign breeds: HF and Jersey. In time they started replacing our local cow breed. These efforts were so extensive and carried out with such dedication that it has now become very difficult to find a pure-breed local cow in Ladakh anymore.

Then there was a twist in the tale of modernity. By the early 2000s, there were voices around the globe supporting the idea of small and local efforts for sustainability. This emphasised the need for local technologies and innovations, which were discussed at length at seminars and conferences.

Nowadays, our ideas of modernity are dominated by concepts such as ‘being local’ and adoption of ‘local ways’. In 2018, the Ladakhi cow was recognised as India’s 42nd breed of indigenous cow. It has taken us a very long time to appreciate and recognise the importance of being local and practicing local ways. Now, once again research and developmental agencies are recommending the adoption of local cows for local farming practices and arguing that it is appropriate for Ladakh. It is being argued that the Ladakhi cow is well-adapted and sustainable. Also, these animals provide us with a milk protein called A2, which is far better than the A1 protein found in the milk of the introduced breeds.

Ladakhi farmers are now in a dilemma about re-adopting the breed that the so-called experts dismissed for their low productivity and are now promoting for their adaptability and milk quality. Ironically, the past efforts of these researchers have ensured that it is now very difficult to find a pure Ladakhi cow—they are restricted to remote areas that are still untouched by modernity.

Photograph and text by Dr. Dorjey Angchok

Dr. Dorjey Angchok is a Scientist at Defence Institute of High Altitude Research (DIHAR). The views expressed in this article are his own.

Floods in Ladakh: Are we paying heed?

Ladakh, which is admired for its towering mountains, crystal-clear rivers, and dry cold desert climate, recently experienced another heartbreaking disaster. In July 2026, intense rainfall and a series of cloudbursts triggered devastating flash floods across several villages in Kargil district, including Sankoo, Sangrah, Karcheykhar, Karkitchoo, Batakhar, Salmo, Choskore, Silmo, Latoo, Karkit (Badgam), Shakar-Chiktan, and Yokma Kharboo.

In a short period of time, streams turned into raging torrents and carried mud, rocks, and boulders. Houses were damaged, roads and bridges collapsed, irrigation canals were destroyed, and fertile agricultural fields were buried under debris. Many families lost their crops and livestock, while several villages were temporarily cut off from the rest of the district.

The immediate cause of these floods was unusually heavy rainfall and cloudbursts across the mountainous region. The cloudbursts released an enormous amount of rain in a very short period. Ladakh’s steep slopes, rocky terrain, and narrow valleys cannot absorb this amount of water in a short period and water rushed downhill at great speed, creating destructive flash floods.

However, the disaster also reflects a larger concern. Scientists state that climate change is increasing the frequency and intensity of extreme weather events in mountain regions across the world including the Himalayas. Although Ladakh has long been known as a cold desert with very little rainfall, rising temperatures are changing weather patterns, increasing the frequency of heavy rainfall and cloudbursts. Human activities such as unplanned construction in vulnerable areas and the degradation of natural drainage channels further increases flood risks and damage from flood events.

Karkitchoo, Kargil

The prompt response of the District Administration, SDRF, Army, BRO, Police, and local volunteers helped rescue affected residents and restore essential services. Their dedication demonstrated the spirit of unity and resilience for which Ladakh is famed. Yet rebuilding damaged homes, roads, irrigation systems, and farmlands will require time, resources, and sustained support.

The recent floods should not be seen as an isolated event but as a warning for the future. Ladakh needs stronger early warning systems, better flood-resilient infrastructure, scientific land use planning, and greater public awareness about disaster preparedness. Protecting the fragile Himalayan environment is essential not only for preserving its natural beauty but also to ensure the safety of people and their livelihoods.

The mountains of Ladakh have symbolised strength and endurance. The recent floods remind us that nature is changing, and we must adapt with wisdom, responsibility, and respect for the environment. Only through sustainable development and collective action can we ensure that such tragic events have limited impact in the years to come.

Sankoo

As a Ladakhi girl, watching these floods has been deeply painful. The mountains, rivers and valleys that have always given us a sense of peace also remind us of nature’s immense power. Seeing families lose their homes, farms and livelihoods is heartbreaking because these are not just places on a map but our communities, our memories and our way of life.

I hope this tragedy serves as a turning point instead of just another disaster that we forget over time. It is a reminder that protecting Ladakh is a shared responsibility. We must respect our environment, support sustainable development and stand together in times of crisis. My fellow Ladakhis, our greatest strength has always been our unity and resilience. If we continue to care for our land as our ancestors did and prepare wisely for the challenges ahead, I believe Ladakh will not only recover but emerge stronger. The mountains have stood tall through every storm, and so can we.

By Obida Akbar

Obida Akbar (Padum, Zangskar) completed her BSc with Honours in Biochemistry from Panjab University, Chandigarh.

(All the photographs are screen grabs from news reports about the recent floods in Ladakh)

Mega projects in Changthang: Secrecy shrouds plans, processes

We are dependent on energy for a range of our needs from charging phones to lighting our homes to watching television and to heating our homes in cold regions like Ladakh. Currently, conventional energy sources are further amplifying the impact of climate change and this is expected to be addressed by tapping renewable energy sources. However, in a region like Ladakh which has a delicate ecosystem, there is much trepidation about several large scale energy projects that have been announced so far.

On 18 October, 2023, Press Information Bureau, Delhi released a note that confirmed the approval of a 13GW renewable energy project in Ladakh. The note stated that the project will be completed by 2029-30 and will be implemented by Power Grid Corporation of India Limited (Powergrid) to develop transmission lines passing through Himachal Pradesh, Punjab and Haryana to be integrated with the National Grid. Its estimated cost is projected at INR 20,773.70 crore (INR 207.737 billion) with an interconnection to the existing grid in Ladakh to ensure a reliable power supply to the region. The project will entail setting up of 713 km of transmission line and establishment of terminals at Pang (Ladakh) and Kaithal (Haryana). The announcement of this project was made by the Prime Minister of India, Narendra Modi on 15 August, 2020 in the form of a 7.5GW solar power project. Subsequently, Ministry of New and Renewable Energy (MNRE), Government of India conducted an extensive survey and prepared a plan to set up a 13GW Renewable Energy (RE) generation capacity. Currently the transmission line project is being installed by Powergrid while the solar power project in Pang is being developed by Solar Energy Corporation of India (SECI).

Sources in the government informed us that SECI will first establish a pilot project of 0.5 MW by placing the solar panels at a certain height to allow livestock to graze the rangelands. They explained, “This is based on studies that suggest when the grazing area is provided with some shade the soil moisture content increases and facilitates vegetation growth. The project has not started yet and is expected to start this season. Once the pilot project is complete, more details will emerge.”

Another renewable energy project that has been announced is a geothermal energy project in Puga for which a tripartite Memorandum of Understanding was signed by ONGC Energy Centre Trust, Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council, Leh and Administration of UT of Ladakh in 2021. This pilot geothermal project of 1MW (with a possibility for future expansion) would be India’s first venture into the geothermal sector with the possibility of expansion. This project is located with the Changthang Cold Desert Wildlife Sanctuary. Ironically, there is very little information and details about any of these projects in the public domain as of now.

In order to understand the geothermal energy project, I spoke to Kunzes Dolma, who is currently pursuing her PhD in geothermal energy from Reykjavik University, Iceland. She said, “Geothermal energy harnesses heat from beneath the Earth’s surface to generate electricity or provide direct heating. Unlike solar or wind energy, which are dependent on weather conditions, geothermal energy is a stable and continuous source of power. By tapping into naturally occurring reservoirs of hot water and steam through wells, this energy can be converted into electricity using turbines and generators. Depending on temperature levels, geothermal heat can be used for space heating, greenhouse agriculture, aquaculture (fish farming), industrial drying, bathing, and even snow melting. This versatility makes geothermal energy a valuable resource, not only for electricity generation but also for direct applications that enhance local economies and sustainability.”

She further added, “India has over 344 recorded hot springs, most of which are classified as low-temperature geothermal fields with temperatures ranging from 5 to 80 degree Celsius. Among them, Geological Survey of India has identified Puga in Ladakh as the most promising geothermal site in India. With an estimated power generation capacity of 50 MW, Puga’s geothermal reservoir exhibits high temperatures and significant geothermal activity, making it ideal for developing sustainable energy. The Puga Geothermal Project is currently a pilot initiative with a planned capacity of 1 MW. If successful, it has the potential to be scaled up to 10 MW or more. In addition to electricity generation, geothermal energy can also be used for space heating for homes, schools, and hospitals, reduced reliance on expensive and polluting diesel and coal burning, greenhouse farming for year-round vegetable and fruit cultivation, hot water supply for communities, improved living standards and reduction of fuel-wood consumption, etc. All of this can benefit Ladakh greatly. Harnessing geothermal energy will reduce Ladakh’s dependence on diesel generators, promote energy security, contribute to the region’s goal of becoming a sustainable and self-sufficient energy hub, and reduce the carbon footprint of energy production processes. Additionally, successful implementation could encourage further investment in geothermal exploration across India, making it a key aspect in the country’s clean energy transition.”

However, questions have been raised on the geothermal project when a blowout incident occurred at the site in 2022 and black discharge/fluid was released into the Puga stream. This was brought to the attention of the media by members of the Wildlife Conservation and Birds Club of Ladakh who visited the site on 16 August, 2022. They approached the Deputy Commissioner, Leh with an appeal for prompt action to stop the drilling. The big question remains about the absence of any precautionary or backup measures as there was a high probability of a breakout as this was the first attempt at tapping the geothermal resources at the site. The discharge should not have been released in the Puga stream and the potential negative impact on the ecosystem highlights the irony of this renewable project.

Environmentalist Narendra Patil had written an article in the September 2022 issue of Stawa with details of this blowout incident. He quoted Geothermal Expert at Iceland Geosurvey (ISOR), Dadi Thorbjornsson as having stated that ‘the discharge was non-toxic and contained bentonite, cement, rock, and water’. He further wrote that there is a likelihood that arsenic was present in the discharge water and added that test results of the water were never made public.

The project faces several other challenges too. Kunzes explained, “Geothermal energy development is still in its early stages in India, and there is a shortage of specialised professionals in this field. Exploration and drilling for geothermal resources requires significant investment, which is one of the reasons India has prioritised other renewable sectors such as solar and wind over geothermal energy. In fact, India still lacks a dedicated policy framework for geothermal energy, which affects long-term investment and development. Furthermore, Puga’s remote location and harsh climate pose numerous logistical difficulties. All essential equipment has to be transported from other states, especially from companies that specialise in oil and gas exploration. In addition, most of the workers involved in geothermal drilling come from lower altitude regions and face health issues in Ladakh’s high altitude and extreme cold and dry climate. Finally, harsh winters limit the work season in Puga to a brief window between June and September, which delays project progress.”

Similarly, we spoke with former Executive Councillor in the Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council, Leh from Korzok constituency, Gurmet Dorjey about the solar project. He explained, “The solar project goes back to when we were a part of the erstwhile Jammu and Kashmir state and Farooq Abdullah was Minister of New and Renewable Energy in Government of India and Rigzin Spalbar was the hon’ble Chief Executive Councillor in LAHDC, Leh. When the project was first proposed, we put forward a set of demands and conditions. Our first condition was that when the project was complete, 50% of the income generated from it would be given for nomad welfare. Our second condition was that Ladakh should receive electricity at no cost and finally we demanded that locals would be prioritised for employment in the project. However, there was no response from the government on these demands and there was some delay. Then in 2021, it was finalised and 48,000 acres of land from Skyang Chu Thang was allotted to it including 20,000 acres for the solar project and 28,000 acres for the transmission line. This was decided without consulting anyone from that region.”

He added that Changthang is rich in biodiversity along with a vibrant pastoralist culture. He said, “The location chosen for the solar project is home to a large variety of migratory birds and 4,000 sq km of the region has been declared as the Changthang Cold Desert Wildlife Sanctuary. My question is that if the solar panels are set up over several kilometres in this area, then where will these birds go? Furthermore, this is the main grazing area for six months for nomadic pastoralists that live in the area between Pang and Kharnak. If this project goes ahead, then they risk losing 30,000-50,000 goat and sheep as their pastures will disappear.”

In an important development, Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change, Government of India published a notification order in The Gazette of India. It constituted the Union Territory level Environment Impact Assessment Authority for Ladakh in accordance with the powers conferred by Environment Protection Act, 1986. The notification states that the State Environment Impact Assessment Authority (SEIAA) will be headed by former Principal Chief Conservator of Forest, Ladakh, Jigmet Takpa, IFS.

We asked Mr Jigmet Takpa about the environmental impact of these projects and how they can be mitigated. He said, “Renewable energy projects do not fall under this authority as per the Environment Impact Assessment Notification, 2006. The reason for this is that renewable energy projects do not cause pollution, do not produce any carbon dioxide or release any discharge. Furthermore, social impacts do not fall under this authority either. If a project is located in a wildlife sanctuary, such as the geothermal project in Puga, then it must get wildlife clearance, which it has already received. The project is not on a large scale as it is located in a wildlife sanctuary.”

Others highlighted the importance of the biodiversity in the area where these projects are located. Director of Snow Leopard Conservancy-India Trust and member of the State Wildlife Board, Ladakh, Dr Tsewang Namgial said, “A wetland is a very important area in a dry place like Ladakh. It serves a number of functions by supporting wildlife including migratory birds as well as livestock, Since Puga is a part of Changthang Cold Desert Wildlife Sanctuary, Ladakh’s State Wildlife Board has given clearance for a geothermal project of 1MW. With regard to the solar projects, we must remember that migratory birds navigate using starlight. If we install solar panels on a large scale it can cause reflective light into the atmosphere, which may interfere with bird migration. This is a concern as Ladakh is an important stopover and breeding ground for many migratory birds including the black-necked crane, which is the state bird of Ladakh.” It is rather ironic that there is very little information available about these projects in the public domain. We tried reaching out to various officials for information and updates about these projects but received no response, including various officials in the Administration of UT of Ladakh. If the end goal of these projects is sustainability and power generation through renewable methods, then there should be transparency about the process of project development and implementation.

By Karuna Chhimed

Karuna Chhimed is a freelance writer based in Leh.

Species focus: Ladakh cliff racer

As the world celebrated International Day for Biodiversity on 22 May 2025, it is important to draw attention to the fact that there are many overlooked species that quietly sustain our ecosystems. Ladakh is known for its unique and fragile ecosystems and is also home to a little-known, harmless snake species, the Ladakh cliff racer or Platyceps ladacensis (Anderson, 1871). This semi-venomous snake is not as celebrated or well-known as the snow leopard or black-necked crane. Though it plays a crucial role in maintaining the ecological balance of the cold desert, it has received minimal scientific attention and public attention.

Globally, Ladakh cliff racer is distributed from north-western India through Pakistan and Afghanistan to eastern Iran and north to southern Turkmenistan, southern Uzbekistan, and western Tajikistan. In India, it is reported from Ladakh, Himachal Pradesh and J&K. In Ladakh, it is found in pockets of lower altitudes areas in Kargil and Leh. They inhabit rocky terrains and cliff edges, which are habitats that are increasingly under threat.

The Ladakh cliff racer is uniquely adapted to the harsh conditions of the Trans Himalayan region with body patterns that blend with the rocky landscape. These snakes are diurnal (active during daytime) or crepuscular (active during dawn and/or dusk) and inhabit extremely dry and rocky areas. There is very limited knowledge on its ecology, behaviour and conservation status especially in Ladakh. This knowledge gap is partly due to its elusive nature and effective camouflage and partly due to limited attention given to lesser fauna in Ladakh. The absence of baseline ecological studies makes it challenging to accurately assess its conservation status or monitor population trends over time.

Current literature reports that it feeds primarily on rodents, small lizards, and amphibians and serves as a natural pest controller. By regulating the population of these animals, it prevents crop damage and supports a balanced food chain. In turn, it serves as prey for predators such as birds of prey and other larger predators. This makes it an integral part of Ladakh’s ecological food chain.

Despite its ecological importance, Ladakh cliff racers remain understudied and unappreciated. Their presence often goes unnoticed, and misconceptions about snakes in general contribute to their neglect. The lack of awareness about their harmless nature and beneficial role leads to them being killed unnecessarily due to fear and superstition.

The most pressing threat is habitat fragmentation caused by expanding roads and tourism infrastructure. Many individuals become road-kills while basking or migrating though these losses remain unreported. This species is listed under Schedule II of Wildlife (Protection) Act of India, 1972. In addition, unregulated development in the region including road construction and tourism-related infrastructure is leading to degradation and fragmentation of their habitat. Until more research is done, this cold desert species will remain ‘Data Deficient’ on the IUCN Red List—a reminder of how much we still have to learn about this resilient high altitude species. There is a pressing need to initiate population studies, raise public awareness, and implement mitigation strategies like road signage in snake-inhabited areas to reduce human-snake conflicts and foster respect for this important species. In a region where every species is finely tuned to the fragility of high altitude environments, every species matters. If we truly aim to conserve biodiversity, we must broaden our focus to include all species, including the unseen, the misunderstood, and the underrepresented that sustain our ecosystems.

Photograph and text by Dr Amjad Hussain

Dr Amjad Hussain is a faculty in the Department of Zoology, University of Ladakh.

Conserving Ladakh’s geological legacy

As we celebrate Earth Day on 22 April, it becomes ever more important to protect not just rivers and forests but also the silent stories written by rock deposits over millions of years. An example of this is the immature conglomerate deposits at Faruna in Kargil (See photograph). These rock layers are made up of rough, unsorted and weathered fragments. They are more than just ancient debris and are windows into the geological history of the planet. They offer valuable clues to understand past depositional environments and on-going geological processes in the cold, arid landscape of Ladakh. The immature nature of these deposits is reflected in the variety and angularity of the rock fragments. The lack of rounding and sorting implies the sedimentary evolution is still at a youthful stage and sediments have not undergone prolonged reworking. However, these deposits have undergone visible weathering and oxidation over time. The matrix and clasts—fragments created as larger rocks breakdown—now display reddish to brownish colours. These are clear indicators of oxidation processes. Iron-bearing minerals in the clasts reacted with atmospheric oxygen to give the rocks a rusty appearance.

Unfortunately, these remarkable formations are disappearing fast. The march of progress including road expansion, construction, and uncontrolled extraction has resulted in the deposits at Faruna being cut and damaged. What is being lost is not just rock but irreplaceable scientific evidence. These rocks help geologists understand the region’s palaeo-environment. In a place like Ladakh, where the Himalayas continue to evolve and rise, the landscape still holds signs of ancient glacial and river systems and these conglomerate beds are a crucial heritage. These rocks help scientists understand how Ladakh was millions of years back. Were there mighty rivers flowing in this area? Did glaciers cover this land at different points in time? The answers lie in the size, shape, and arrangement of the clasts in these beds. As bulldozers break through layers of ancient deposits, we lose more than just rocks—we lose scientific evidence and geological heritage. In Ladakh’s fragile mountain ecosystem, such knowledge is not just academic but essential for our adaptation and survival. It’s time we start systematically documenting, protecting, and raising awareness about such geological heritage sites. Local authorities, scientists, researchers and local communities can work together to declare such deposits as a geological heritage site. Only then will Faruna’s conglomerate deposits and similar sites continue to speak to future generations.

Text by Tsering Lazes

Photograph by Fatima Bano

Tsering Lazes (Ney) is a medal-holder for her MSc in Geology and is currently serving as Assistant Professor at Government Degree College, Drass.

Fatima Bano is pursuing a BSc in Geology at Government Degree College, Drass.

The existential threats to Rangdum wetlands

The Rangdum wetlands are facing an existential danger. It was once a remote high altitude ecosystem teeming with migratory birds and has now become a construction site buzzing with the sound of heavy earthmoving machinery. This abrupt transformation is a stark reminder that we can no longer take such ecological havens for granted.

Nestled in the remote Zangskar region of Ladakh, the Rangdum wetlands are one of the most ecologically significant sites in the western Himalayan region. The wetland is formed primarily by melt-water from the Drang Drung glacier, which is said to be India’s second-largest after Siachen. The wetlands serve as a critical water source for surrounding areas and feed into the Suru river, which is a tributary of the Indus. However, Rangdum’s importance extends far beyond water security.

According to research, 69 different species of birds have been recorded from Rangdum wetlands, including six passage migrants, 25 residents, 36 summer visitors, and three vagrants. These wetlands serve as staging, breeding, and feeding grounds for many birds including black-necked crane, bar-headed goose, and ruddy shelduck. Without urgent intervention, we may lose this vital site, which threatens the survival of these species and the ecosystem.

Despite being recognised as an Important Bird Area (IBA) by BirdLife International in 2004, Rangdum wetlands have faced increasing pressure from human activity. These activities include development of roads, power lines, and fences as well as a rise in unregulated tourism: all of which has degraded the ecosystem and put the wetland ecosystem at risk. Increased vehicular traffic has also led to an increase in plastic pollution in places that were void of non-biodegradable waste in the past. Illegal brick kilns and other extractive industries now dot parts of the landscape, which were inaccessible earlier.

I remember my first visit to Rangdum in June 2018, not long after completing my master’s degree. My friends and I spontaneously decided to embark on a journey to Zangskar. The roads were rough and bumpy, and the journey was exhausting but exhilarating—a perfect mix of Ladakh’s challenging terrain and breath-taking scenery. Rangdum wetlands were a pleasant surprise during this brief trip. Being an avid birdwatcher, I was immediately drawn to the bustling bird activity. The wetlands were alive with the sounds and movements of migratory birds feeding, resting, and preparing for the next leg of their long journey. It felt like I had stumbled upon a hidden paradise, untouched by time and largely unspoiled by human activity.

During my doctoral research fieldwork in subsequent years, I noticed subtle but troubling developments in this landscape. Bird numbers seemed to be dwindling, and their melodious cacophony was fading. Initially, I attributed these shifts to natural fluctuations—snowfall that year or weather fluctuations. By 2022, these changes were undeniable. A wetland teeming with birdlife now had few avian visitors. My countless stops for bird photography left me empty-handed. Sometimes, I did not even spot the common Eurasian magpie! I was dumbstruck and perplexed. Unsurprisingly, this was happening in tandem with roads in the area being widened, and Zangskar, which was once an isolated valley, becoming more accessible with direct road connections to Manali and Leh.

I was then confronted with a striking eyesore. Seven massive electric pylons sat atop the wetland area over soil mounds used by migratory ducks and grebes for nesting. Each pylon had its own access road cutting through the bog, dumping debris that further scarred the wetland. Even paths used by mammals such as Himalayan ibex, blue sheep, wolves, and snow leopards, are blocked by fences along roads forcing them to make dangerous crossings and increasing the risk of road accidents. This haphazard development poses a threat not only to the wetlands but also to the larger ecosystem.

I am not against development. As much as anyone else, I understand the need for improved infrastructure, easier accessibility, and the desire for economic benefits. However, development at the cost of pristine habitats and fragile ecosystems is not fair, sustainable, or utilitarian. Mindless development that fails to integrate ecosystem damage mitigation strategies is an ecological debt that make us environmentally, socially, and economically bankrupt. We must act now. In Rangdum, action needs to be in the form of responsible and mindful development.

Wetlands like Rangdum serve as natural filters, improving water quality by trapping pollutants and sediments. They act as sponges, absorbing excess rainwater and preventing floods in surrounding regions. Their degradation could lead to far-reaching consequences, affecting communities that rely on them for clean water, agriculture, and climate regulation.

However, beyond their intrinsic ecological value, these wetlands also have a significant economic potential for local communities. Birdwatchers, naturalists, and tourists from across the world are drawn to Rangdum’s natural beauty and biodiversity and in turn economically empower local communities. Therefore, in contrast with a rural landscape with no significant bird activity, the people of Rangdum have a better chance of earning a livelihood due to the presence of wildlife and birds. Mindful development needs to recognise this as it introduces linear infrastructure projects to the region.

Actionable Steps for Conservation

We should not halt development, but we can do it responsibly. As Rangdum becomes more accessible, the government and private developers must implement regulatory checks and balances to protect the local environment. Here are key strategies:

  1. Strategic zoning: Designate specific areas for construction, ensuring sensitive ecosystems like wetlands remain untouched. Enforce zoning laws that protect critical habitats, preventing encroachment by infrastructure projects.
  2. Wildlife-friendly infrastructure: Plan roads and electric pylons with animal migration patterns in mind to avoid fragmenting habitats. Implement underpasses for animals, bird-safe power lines, and noise reduction measures to mitigate the impact on wildlife.
  3. Sustainable tourism: Encourage eco-friendly tourism practices that involve and benefit local communities such as bird watching or guided wildlife tours. Proper waste management systems and tourist education programmes are crucial to ensure tourism does not degrade the environment.
  4. Strict waste management: Control tourism-related waste, especially plastic, to prevent pollution of these fragile ecosystems. Introduce bans on single-use plastics in protected areas and increase the availability of eco-friendly alternatives.
  5. Biodiversity monitoring: Conduct continuous research and documentation to track changes in the ecosystem and inform conservation efforts. Pair this monitoring with periodic reviews of development projects to ensure they remain ecologically sound over time.

In addition, prioritise funding for restoration efforts to rehabilitate degraded wetlands and reintroduce lost species. These initiatives should be scientifically backed and supported by the local community to ensure long-term success.

The Rangdum wetlands are not just an ecological treasure but a test case for how we balance development with conservation. Mindful development is not just about protecting birds and wildlife, but about securing the future of an entire ecosystem and the people who rely on it. If we fail to act now, we risk losing a critical habitat for migratory birds and a vital part of our natural heritage. The clock is ticking, and the time to act is now.


Photographs and text by Dr. Iqbal Ali Khan

Dr. Iqbal Ali Khan is Himalaya Landscape Advisor at The Nature People Network.

Why a heat wave led to cancellation of Leh flights

Ladakh experienced an unusually hot summer this year with temperatures soaring to 36 degree Celsius (96.8 degree Fahrenheit) in some parts of Leh district. The sun rays were so strong that it was difficult to step outside. The markets were empty during the afternoons as people chose to remain indoors. The merciless and fiery sun would drain anything that was exposed to it. It did not spare anything. Even the leaves of trees started to wilt and many of them were strewn along various roads.

My school friend from the plains was in Ladakh for a few days during which he signed up for a biking trip to explore different parts of the region. He had a great stay and promised to return again next year. It was from him that I first heard of the bizarre phenomenon of flights from Leh being cancelled due to high temperatures. His flight to Delhi was cancelled and he was forced to take a taxi to Srinagar and board a flight to Delhi.

Earlier, I had heard of flights being cancelled in the winter and spring, due to snowfall and reduced visibility. This made sense as Leh’s Kushok Bakula Rinpoche Airport requires a visual approach where the pilots rely on their vision—instead of using various navigational instruments—to land as well as take-off.

I started asking people about this odd phenomenon of flights to and from Leh being cancelled due to high temperatures. A Ladakhi friend mentioned that every summer, airlines that operate flights to and from Leh have to deal with the issue of heat as the airport is located at a high altitude—10,915ft (3,315m) above mean sea level (amsl). This means that these airlines do not accept cargo beyond a threshold to ensure that the aircraft does not exceed a certain weight. This is done to ensure that the aircraft can operate in the conditions prevalent in the context of the elevation and heat of Leh airport.

Even though airlines have been managing this issue all these years, most passengers have remained unaware of it. However, this precarious balancing act of temperature, altitude and aircraft got out of hand with 16 flight cancellations between 27 and 30 July, 2024 as temperatures around Leh airport soared to 36 degree Celsius (96.8 degree Fahrenheit) and above in the afternoons on those days.

Ladakh is a high altitude mountainous region. It is very challenging for pilots to manoeuvre an aircraft in such terrain even in the best conditions. It is not a surprise that only experienced pilots with years of special training and certification are deputed to operate on this sector. In addition to the terrain, pilots also have to contend with visibility in overcast conditions. Low visibility has led to a number of flight cancellations over the years, especially in the winter and spring. Furthermore, all flights in and out of Leh airport are operated from mid-morning (after 0600 hours) until mid-afternoon (1400 hours). The reason for this is that fierce wind patterns develop in this terrain later in the afternoon, which pose a serious hazard for aircrafts. High temperatures have now emerged as an additional challenge for civilian and military aircrafts in Ladakh, especially in the summer. In fact, this is the first time flight operations at Leh airport have been cancelled due to high temperatures—a clear indication of human-induced climate change. It took me some research to understand how high temperatures impacted aviation in Leh.

Based on my reading, the first thing we need to understand is the correlation between air density, temperature, and altitude. Scientists have developed a standard method to measure air density. This is called International Standard Atmosphere (ISA), which is density of air at a location at sea level at a temperature of 15 degree Celsius (59 degree Fahrenheit) and air pressure of 1,013 hectopascals. The temperature is then assumed to drop by 1.6 degree Celsius (35 degree Fahrenheit) for every 1,000 feet (305m) increase in elevation. Thus, the density of air i.e. the number of air molecules in a given unit of space, changes in relation to temperature and altitude. This means that air density can drop at sea level when temperatures increase. For instance, if the temperature at a location at sea level increases to 35 degree Celsius (95 degree Fahrenheit), it is called ISA+20 (as it is 20 degrees higher than the established standard) and the air density is equivalent to that experienced at an altitude of 2,400ft (732m) amsl even though the actual altitude has not changed. This is called density altitude and has important implications for aviation.

The second concept that we need to understand is how an aircraft functions. An aircraft gains height through the lift that is generated by its wings. Airplane wings are designed in such a manner that the upper portion of the wing is slightly curved in relation to the lower part, which is flat. When the aircraft is in motion, air travels faster over the upper portion of the wing and creates low pressure around the upper wing. Since air travels from high to low pressure, the pressure difference between the upper and lower sections of the wing generate lift, which allows an aircraft to gain height.

A similar concept is used in cricket to induce swing bowling. Fast bowlers shine one side of the ball and leave the other side rough. When the ball passes through the air, it starts to swing in the direction of the rough side where it encounters higher resistance to create low pressure. Thus, it is pressure difference that generates swing for fast bowlers. Similarly, bowlers also generate reverse swing once the ball is fairly old and one side is relatively more polished than the other. In such a condition, the ball behaves very differently and swings in the opposite side as compared to conventional swing. This is due to the pressure difference between the two hemispheres of the ball. In an old ball, both sides are rough but one side is slightly smoother. The airflow is such that it will first swing in the conventional way in the direction of the rough side but then changes its trajectory towards the end and swings in the opposite direction. That is because it experiences more turbulence as it travels through the air, which disrupts its flow and causes it to swing in the opposite direction.

Coming back to aircrafts, the amount of lift generated is determined by the air density and the speed at which the air passes over the wing. When the air density is lower due to higher temperatures, the aircraft has to increase its speed by using a longer runway. However, the thrust generated by the engines is also impacted by lower air density due to reduced air molecules available to it. Thus, the engineering design of aircrafts imposes a limit on the atmospheric conditions under which they can operate safely. As a corollary, pilots and airport staff determine the safety of aircraft operations by accounting for the altitude and temperature of the specific airport. Since, the altitude of an airport remains fixed, a standard temperature threshold is fixed above which aviation operations are deemed to be unsafe. In the case of Leh, the temperature threshold has been set at 32 degree Celsius (89 degree Fahrenheit) in the context of its altitude. The strategy of reducing the weight of the aircraft by limiting its cargo load offers no real benefits once the temperatures rise beyond the threshold.

This means that once the temperatures around Leh airport—given its altitude—rose beyond this threshold, the air became less dense with lower atmospheric pressure, and increased density altitude. This made air operations unsafe and led to the cancellations of flights. Aeronautics is a complex field, especially in relation to atmospheric conditions and high altitude conditions in mountainous regions such as Ladakh.

This highlights the seriousness of human-induced climate change and its impact on our lives. In addition to the inconveniences of flight cancellations, we are also experiencing droughts, floods, changing weather patterns, increased unpredictability, and shifts in ecosystems. This threatens all life-forms in mountainous regions such as ours, which have adapted to these challenging conditions over several millennia. Climate change is very real and it is rather scary. There is an urgent need for people around the world to unite and act to reverse and slow the process of global climate change before it is too late.

By Stanzin Kunkhen

Stanzin Kunkhen holds a Bachelor’s degree in psychology from Ambedkar University, Delhi.

The need to preserve Ladakh’s geo-heritage

The Trans Himalayan region of Ladakh is located at the junction of collision between the Indian and Eurasian tectonic plates. The formation of the Himalayas started with the closure of the Tethys ocean around 65 million years ago. The region has a mesmerising landscape with a diversity of geomorphic and geological features. It has a rich and fascinating heritage owing to its unique geographical location. The area comprises wide glacial valleys, majestic mountains, saline and freshwater lakes, sand dunes, and lunar-like surface features. The region’s extraordinary geology has attracted many geoscientists, environmentalists, researchers, and nature lovers from around the world.

Ladakh is a natural laboratory that holds evidence of Himalayan mountain-building process. It has rocks formed at high temperatures and high pressure deep inside the earth that are known as eclogites, which can be observed near Sumdo in Changthang, eastern Ladakh. One can also observe rocks like pyroxenite, serpentinite, harzburgite, lherzolite, dunite, and gabbro, which have crystallised at high temperatures along the Indus and Shayok valleys. As a result of the closure of Tethys ocean, underwater rocks such as ophiolites can be observed in different parts of Ladakh including Nidar and Zildat areas in the east, Shargole in the west, and Spontang, Zangskar in the south. The presence of such rocks provides a unique and rare opportunity to study ocean floor processes. In addition to ophiolites, the erstwhile ocean floor includes fossil-rich limestone, which gives us an opportunity to understand past marine life. This includes fossils of marine life as well as freshwater fossils of plants and animals dating back millions of years.

Chortens above palaeo-lake deposits near Spituk Monastery, Leh.

The Indus river valley is tectonically unstable due to the continued mountain-building process. This has resulted in variations in topography, height of landscape, and sedimentation causing mass movements, and shifting of sediments to valley floors. Owing to these tectonic disturbances, lakes have been known to form due to damming of the Indus for different time spans at various locations in the geological past. In time, sediments would accumulate over the lake floor and once the lake would drain due to outburst floods caused by tectonic activity, the sediments would get redistributed.

These lake deposits are one of the most informative, best-documented, and well-preserved sedimentary archives along the Indus river, which is significant geological evidence of the palaeo-lacustrine environment and a research asset for palaeo-climatic studies in Ladakh. The sequence of lake sediments offers us an opportunity to infer past climatic changes, understand complex geomorphic processes forming a variety of intertwined landforms, and vertical variations in minerals, and to decipher changes in the source of sediments. It also preserves the imprint of past climate and tectonic events that can be used to interpret the climate-tectonic inter-relationship in this geologically active region where glacial and fluvial processes have played an important role in landscape evolution by depositing, blocking, and diverting drainage courses. Such palaeo-lake sites including Spituk (Pethub), Guphuks, Zingchen, Khaltsi, Lamayuru, Achinathang, Hanuthang, Byama, and Akchamal along Indus Valley and Khalsar along Shayok and Tangtse river valleys have immense scientific and educational value.

Sulphur deposition in Puga Valley, eastern Ladakh.

Granitic bodies extend from the Astor-Deosai-Skardu region to the Lhasa region in Tibet and are evident throughout the Trans Himalayas along a west-to-east axis. These granites are exposed in Ladakh and in geology they are known as Ladakh Granitoid Complex/Ladakh batholith, which consists of a variety of granitic rocks including tonalite, granodiorite, diorite, porphyritic granite, etceach of which exhibit different textures. These granitic rocks are mineralised with quartz, feldspar, mica, hornblende, tourmaline, etc. The compositional studies of these granites could provide clues to their genetic environment.

Ladakh region is endowed with rich mineral wealth of economic importance. Some of the important minerals that occur in Ladakh are aquamarine beryl crystals in granitic rocks exposed between Hemya and Gaik areas, chromite mineralised in rock bodies of Kyun Tso-Shurok-Sumdo areas in eastern Ladakh and on the way to Marpo-la from Drass in Kargil. Malachite and azurite (copper ores) are present as stains near Basgo in Leh and the confluence of Suru river and Pinjung Nala in Kargil. Gypsum is present in the form of beds and lenses at Phitsi Nala in Zangskar valley, Kargil district, and Puga valley, Leh district. A considerable quantity of magnesite and marble has also been reported from Ladakh. The Himalayan granites possess a high concentration of uranium, thorium, and potassium, which are responsible for the generation of geothermal energy that is evident in the number of hot springs in Ladakh including Panamic, Puga, and Chumathang along with deposits of sulphur, borax, and fluorite mineralisation respectively.

Rocks crystalized in high temperature and under high pressure in the mantle (Eclogite, lens-shaped dark body in image) near Sumdo, Puga area, eastern Ladakh.

Ladakh is a treasure trove that attracts visitors from around the world to experience and study the remarkable landscapes and landforms that are found in the region. Given its exceptional geology, riches of natural resources, and fragile environment, Ladakh is regarded as an important geo-heritage region that needs urgent attention to prevent possible destruction. These areas are important for school and college-level educational activities as well as scientific studies related to natural hazards, groundwater, environmental changes, geological history, etc. In this context, local communities and the government need to work together to conserve these geological treasures. This will require public awareness, legislation, documentation, and research to systematically preserve these sites while still enabling developmental changes.

Text by Dr. Stanzin Namga and Dr. Meenakshi

Photographs by Stanzin Oldan

Dr. Stanzin Namga is a faculty member at the Department of Geology, University of Ladakh

Dr. Meenakshi is a Postdoctoral Fellow at the Department of Geology, University of Ladakh

Stanzin Oldan is a student at Jamyang School, Leh.